Park Slope ReaderNext Issue Coming Summer 2010 - Ad Deadline May 3

Issue 31

Reader Cafe

Fonda and Baluchi's

Art by N.C. Sampson

By Christy Vaughan

Fonda
434 7th Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11215
(718) 369-3144

In Mexico, a "fonda" is a restaurant that serves simple, comforting food and acts as a haven for those who need to rest and rejuvenate their body and spirit. Chef Roberto Santibeñez has opened his very own Fonda in Brooklyn and although it's been in operation just since the end of the summer, it's already making a name for itself in the neighborhood. After my first visit, I can easily see why. The food is delicious and the ambiance comfortable and welcoming, just as the name implies it should be.

Chef Roberto Santibeñez, originally from Mexico City, has an impressive culinary resume including training at Le Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris as well as a successful tenure as Culinary Director for the Rosa Mexicano restaurant chain. With Fonda he brings both traditional

Mexican cuisine to South Slope as well as innovative and unique dishes that push well past the enchilada and guacamole barrier.

Fonda has a fairly small wine list that features selections mostly from South America and Spain, but the real excitement lies in the cocktail menu. I still have a few months of pregnancy left and so as the lone teetotaler at the table, I watched enviously as my friends began our meal with drinks like the Torito, a blend of pure tequila and choice of pomegranate or mango juice and the Paloma, a fizzy concoction made with Sauza Hornitos tequila and tart grapefruit soda.

I got to join in the fun with the appetizers. We started with the duck zarape, homemade corn tortillas filled with succulent braised duck and a tomato-habanero cream sauce that brings the whole dish together very nicely with a little spice and a little smoke. The grilled cheese with chorizo is not, as the same suggests, a grilled cheese sandwich augmented with chorizo, but instead a fondue-like creation that you ladle into a tortilla and top with some much needed salsa for a little acid. Fortunately we were sharing amongst the three of us, as I found the starters we chose to be somewhat filling but ultimately delicious.

My two favorite entrees of the evening were the pork adobo and the Marco Pollo. Both were served with sauces that had so much complexity and character that I was thankful for the extra tortillas and rice as I wanted to enjoy every last ounce in the bowl. The pork was braised in a mulato-chile sauce that gave it an element of savory sweetness and the meat itself was so tender that it literally melted in my mouth. The black beans served with dish were fantastic, so earthy and complex with an element of dark chocolate. The Marco Pollo featured slow-cooked chicken served in a banana leaf and topped with a tomato-habanero sauce that added lots of depth and flavor to the dish. Rice and beans rounded out the dish and made for a hearty meal.

We felt compelled to finish our meal with some chocolate after tasting so many hints of it during our meal and the bittersweet brownies served with a caramel cajeta sauce and burnt tequila whipped cream did not disappoint. On my list to try for next time is the chocolate pudding, which I heard our neighbors at the next table loudly enjoying. Too bad one can only eat so much in one sitting!

During the cooler months Fonda promises a cozy and warm environment, with a rustic, reddish-brown brick wall, softly shaded lights over the bar, and candles flickering here and there throughout the room. If you find yourself weary of the cold this winter, in need of rejuvenation of body and spirit, or if you just want to eat some really good food, I am sure that you will find a welcome place at Fonda.

Baluchi's
310 5th Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11215
(718) 832-5555

It's no secret that Park Slope has a dearth of Indian restaurants; and so it was with much anticipation that I welcomed the opening of Baluchi's on 5th Avenue approximately a year ago. Baluchi's, a successful chain of Indian restaurants, first opened in Soho now has multiple locations in Manhattan and Queens. The Park Slope restaurant is currently their only Brooklyn site.

Aside from a few takeout forays, I didn't get a chance to eat at the actual restaurant until this fall and as I so often find, the actual dining in experience was significantly better than the takeout one. We gathered together a group of friends one evening to celebrate a birthday and it seemed like the perfect time to share a large spread of Indian food. Indian food is one of my favorite cuisines to eat in a group situation as there are so many different dishes to experience and I like trying a variety of tastes throughout the meal without ordering a ridiculous amount of food just for myself and a couple of other people. Sometimes I just want a spoonful of one dish or a forkful of another, so sharing is the perfect way to do that.

We ordered a variety of starters for everyone to enjoy, including subtly spicy samosas packed with potato and peas, delicately crispy pakoras, and tasty marinated vegetable kabobs. The pakoras were my favorite, especially the ones made with cauliflower. Although these little fritters are deep-fried, they aren't greasy and they are definitely addictive. For our main courses we tried a couple of standards, like the chicken tikka masala, with its lovely creamy, vibrant orange sauce. The morsels of chicken were tender and flavorful and we soaked up the rest of the tomato sauce with a fluffy order of naan and aromatic basmati rice. Our other meat entrée was the lamb rogan rosh and it turned out to be our favorite dish of the evening. The lamb was lean and fork tender and the cardamom-scented sauce was so rich and delicious that we ordered a second one for the table as the first was gone so quickly!
We had a couple of vegetarians in our group, including the guest of honor. I think Indian food is one of the best cuisines for vegetarians because it tastes like the dishes were really created based on attention to texture and taste and not just as a perfunctory afterthought of randomly selected vegetables for the poor non-meat-eater. Baluchi's features an extensive list of vegetarian options including a rich and savory chana masala brimming with sautéed onions, chick peas and tomatoes and a saag panir with tender chunks of fresh cheese and melt-in-your-mouth spinach.

Baluchi's interior is quite opulent, with a myriad of multi-colored lanterns dangling from the ceiling and lush silk cushions and mirrors lining the benches and walls. The dining area is conveniently set back from the street with the bar acting as a buffer between the two areas. It's a wonderful location for a party or for an intimate dinner for two as the atmosphere is festive but there are also some nooks that make the experience cosier. If you're looking for a place to chase away the cold weather blues this winter, Baluchi's is a perfect choice for a different kind of warm and comforting food.

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