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Nancy Lippincott

The Reader Interview: Coming Out

July 3, 2019 By Nancy Lippincott Filed Under: The Reader Interview Tagged With: lgbtq, reader interview, Walt Whitman

How the hidden, queer verse of Walt Whitman found a safe space amidst the illustrations of an adored children’s book author.

Author Brian Selznick

Walt Whitman hid a big secret in Leaves of Grass. Brian Selznick, author of The Invention of Hugo Cabret and Caldecott Award winner, has long been a collector of the book, but he never read a single line. That is, until his revered mentor and longtime friend, Maurice Sendak, let him in on the secret only known in select literary and scholarly circles. Hidden within the pages of this celebrated collection of American poetry was another collection of poems, Live Oak, With Moss.

Now, upon both the 200th anniversary of Whitman’s birth—and the 50th anniversary of the Stonewall riots—Live Oak, With Moss debuts to the public in a format as never seen before, complemented with a visual journey courtesy of Selznick and contextual analysis by Karen Karbiener. 

We sat down with Selznick in his Park Slope home to discuss the artistic endeavor of presenting Whitman’s Live Oak, With Moss, out, for the first time. 

PARK SLOPE READER: In your forward to the book you acknowledge the major influence that Maurice Sendak had in your career and in inspiring this endeavor—including his stance that poems don’t need illustrations. How did this shape your approach to the book?

Brian Selznick: How do I justify the fact that I made this entire book? No, that was a really big issue for me because Maurice really had always been like a god to me. His work was the work that I had learned the most from. 

There’s so much about our conversations that directly or indirectly led to everything I’ve done since we’ve met. I think one of the things that I had noticed even before this particular conversation was that he was really brilliant about what to illustrate and what not to illustrate.

If you remember Where the Wild Things Are you might remember that the only page that has no pictures is the last page where Max has come home from all of his adventures, he’s left the wild things and he ends up back in his room, and his mother, who had sent him to bed without any supper, has left his supper for him waiting. And you turn the page and it’s all white except for the words, “And it was still hot.” He could’ve drawn Max sitting happily eating the supper and his mom maybe looking through the crack of the door over him, but Maurice chose not to draw a picture on that page. . . . No matter what he does, his mother still loves him and that doesn’t need a picture.

My interpretation of what he meant was that poetry is designed as a communion between the poet and the reader, and that anything an illustrator does will interfere with that communion.

Because he said he didn’t illustrate stories. He tried to illuminate them.  

This collection of poems has never really existed on its own in print. It’s now out and it’s visible and it’s consumable, and it did feel as though you were respecting that.

Brian Selznick: Well, that was definitely the intention and the fact that the poems themselves were hidden and then revealed is itself something that parallels what most queer people experience in terms of coming out. 

[Whitman] never talks about these poems in any of his letters to anybody. There’s no indication in any of his other writing that anybody ever knew about this sequence. One of the things Karen Karbiener talks about is how special it is and how powerful it is that he wrote these poems about this part of himself that people didn’t even have language for.

In one of the poems he actually says the line, “I am what I am.” Karen identifies that as this moment where he comes out to himself for the first time, and that’s a very powerful thing to recognize and to see and to have written. 

You’ve spent most of your career working on very obvious narrative arcs, and this, by contrast, must’ve presented a unique challenge. You’re dealing with something in the abstract. How do you approach that as an artist, and can you talk about the different process you took in producing this?

Brian Selznick: I’m a very narrative-based thinker and so all the books that I’ve done up until this are really built around the story. Even when I’m writing my own books, like The Invention of Hugo Cabret or Wonderstruck or The Marvels, I always start with the plot first, and then the second thing I figure out is characters, and then the third thing I figure out is motivation. So, it’s this weird, very backwards way of working. But, it’s somewhat mechanical in certain ways in that I need to know what’s happening in the plot in order to know who the characters would be that would make that plot happen. 

Then, after working on something for a year or two, I figure out why the characters are doing the thing that makes the plot happen. And I think that’s partially why I’ve always really loved abstract art and always secretly wished that I was an abstract artist, because I’m so tied to plot.

I do see a narrative arc in Whitman’s poems and it was described to me by Maurice as a poem about a love affair that Whitman had with another man that ended, and then Whitman is dealing with the grief of the end of that relationship. (And Karen and most scholars now argue that it’s not necessarily about a single relationship; it’s larger and more esoteric than that.)

But still, when I think about the movement through these poems, I still see or create a narrative, but I think that’s very human thing to do. We make narratives out of everything, and I think that most of us even look at abstract art and often we’ll put a narrative on it. 

He wrote these poems about this part of himself that people didn’t even have language for.

You are a children’s book illustrator, primarily, but Live Oak, With Moss is intended for adults. Was that at all freeing for you? Was it challenging? Did it matter at all?

Brian Selznick: It did matter. When I write my books for children I actually don’t think about children when I’m writing. I’m just trying to make a good story. 

Which is why I think they’re so beloved by adults as well.

Brian Selznick: Oh, good. I’m aware that most of my audience will be kids, and the reason I think my work is for kids is because my main characters are kids. But that’s not really a choice I’m making. It’s just that the stories that come to me are about people who are between the ages of 10 and 12 years old. Because of that, I’m aware that people who are that age like to read about themselves, and the only concession I make to children when I’m thinking about my stories is that I know that I’m not going to use curse words, and I know that there’s not going to be sex scenes. 

Other than that, there’s no concession to kids, which is why I often end up writing about things that either grownups don’t even know about or you find out in grad school—like the history of French cinema or the history of museums and the cabinets of wonder and memory palaces, which is part of what Wonderstruck was built on, or 19th century theater and the AIDS crisis which was at the heart of The Marvels. These are not general topics for readers who are 10 to 12 years old.

I was conscious of that fact that I was making something for grownups and wanted to be honest about what I was making—and honest about the queerness of it and the sensuality of it, but I definitely was aware that I didn’t want to do anything that, if a kid was to see, it would be too upsetting. There’s naked men in this book. There’s this sequence where we see the bodies touching, but there’s nothing identifiable in it that I think would be shocking to anybody.

Live Oak, With Mosshas a lot of literary and creative heritage imbued in it. Could you talk how you felt bringing all of this together?

Brian Selznick: Yeah, well, I mean nothing exists in a vacuum and everything that we create is something that comes out of what we’ve learned about what our experiences are, who we’ve encountered, what artists move us. In so many ways, anything you look at you can trace back through the history of time and probably find some precedent for any story that’s been written somewhere in the Bible or the Mahabharata or in Greek mythology. 

The roots for all of these stories and all of us as artists, I think, is pretty easily traceable throughout all of time. Maurice, for me, has always been the central artist, and after I did a couple of picture book biographies—the Whitman book, one about Marian Anderson, one about Amelia Earhart and Eleanor Roosevelt, one about a dinosaur artist named Waterhouse Hawkins—and I ended up getting stuck after that. I didn’t know what to do, and that’s around the time I met Maurice and I just sort of clicked myself into Maurice Sendak university. Whatever he mentioned to me, whatever poem he mentioned, whatever novel he mentioned, whatever painting he mentioned, I would then go and look up, and read or dive into, or learn more about if I didn’t know about it.

That’s why I first read Moby Dick—because he loves Herman Melville so much and Emily Dickinson, and Van Gogh as I had mentioned earlier. He offered me a gateway in a lot of ways into all of these early 20th and 19th century artists who themselves were then coming out of so many other artists before them. I love what Karen talks about with Whitman looking at Shakespeare and purposefully taking things from him and trying to parallel and trying to say America can make someone like you, too. Like, I can be what you are in England in the world, but I can be expressly American, and America has the talent and the breadth to do that. This new country can create an American bard. I think that that very much is an inherent part of the creation of the book—it is all of these connections: The Victor Prevost black-and-white photographs of the city, and the idea of the city has portraiture and then some of the photographs are the naked men by Thomas Eakins and Edward Muybridge.

Eakins, who painted a lot of naked young men, also very famously photographed Whitman at the end of his life and knew him. I think maybe I knew that a little bit, but that connection became stronger once I was putting the book together, realizing that I was using photographs by someone who had later photographed Whitman.

The fact that so many of these images are by Edward Muybridge, who people credit with the beginning of cinema. . . .it makes sense that the book itself is a web of all of these artistic connections. If you go to Shakespeare, if you look at all of the writers who he was inspired by, he hardly made up any of his plots! He would read this myth and then this story, and then that play and the write his version of it. But, of course, his version of it was a billion times better than any of the previous ones, and it becomes the one that we know. And it becomes . . . he imbues it with his genius. 

As long as there are artists making art, Maurice’s work will be there as an inspiration and as something beautiful the way that all the people he loved will continue to inspire people.


Filed Under: The Reader Interview Tagged With: lgbtq, reader interview, Walt Whitman

The New Wave: The New Regular

February 7, 2017 By Nancy Lippincott Filed Under: New Wave Tagged With: coffee, community, Entertainment, Food & Drinks

There were a lot of crappy things that went down in 2016 that made us all too eager for the fresh start of a new year. Last year especially was marked by a lot of loss — artists, thinkers, political optimism, faith in humanity. . . The small business world in Park Slope was not an exception, as many stores and restaurants on Fifth and Seventh Avenues — some having been neighborhood fixtures for more than a decade — shuttered permanently. It’s sad when a much-loved business unexpectedly announces that it will close, especially if it was your regular joint (RIP Gorilla Coffee). After all, it’s not just the coffee or the sandwich or the convenience that goes away; it’s also the familiar faces behind the counters and bars. The upside — there’s always an upside — is that vacancies always end up getting filled. Just as we all notice when a storefront goes dark, we also feel that excited curiosity when the windows are subsequently lined in butcher paper, permits go up, and rumors start to buzz about who is next up to bat. And who knows? There’s always the possibility that whatever steps in next may become your new regular spot. Check out our list of promising new businesses, and then decide for yourself if any of them might be your new go-to in 2017.

 

Coffee Shops:

Blue Bottle Coffee 203 7th Avenue bluebottlecoffee.com Blue Bottle Coffee has expanded their famous pour-over empire to a new lovely tree-lined corner on Seventh Avenue just a couple blocks away from the park. This will be their third Brooklyn location, which they thoughtfully tailored to Park Slope’s youngest generation by designating outdoor stroller parking and offering high chairs. Patrons will be able to enjoy a full breakfast and lunch menu in addition to their regular menu of coffee and espresso drinks.

Uptown Roasters 355 7th Avenue uptownroasters.com A neighborhood favorite in Harlem, Uptown Roasters will open their second location further down Seventh Avenue between 10th and 11th Streets. Dan Hildebrand and his wife have used their coffee sales to facilitate better wages for Peruvian farmers from whom they source their beans. The new 1500-square-foot space will provide even more opportunity for community building, as they have big plans to use it for local events, tastings, and talks.

Also check out: Everyman Espresso 162 5th Avenue

 

Retail:

Lucky Rubber Ducky 194-196 7th Avenue tarzianwest.com With Good Footing having migrated to a new location, Judy Kow, owner of Tarzian West, seized the opportunity — and the adjacent space — to expand her specialty kitchenware store. The new landlord loved Tarzian West so much that she approached Kow about taking over the storefront. The extra room has now enabled the business to respond to increasing demand from their loyal customer base for more merchandise. Their product line has now expanded beyond the kitchen to the rest of the home to include linens, lighting, throws, and more in a spacious and well curated shop.

Father Figure fatherfigure.com This crowd-funded fashion line was born and grown here in Park Slope by former Google employee Andrew Bentley. After becoming a new dad, Bently identified a need from millennial fathers for fashionable and functional clothing and parenting accessories. The collection is designed to “keep babies comfortable and dads looking good.” Customers can shop the locally owned, made-in-the-USA apparel online.

Also check out: Libra 1304 8th Avenue

 

 

Food & Drink:

Gnarley Eats 447 7th Avenue gnarleyeats.com Does a burger, fries, and drink for under $15 exist in our neighborhood? Now it does. Not only can you score a sloppy cheeseburger, buttermilk-fried chicken burger, wings, tater tots and a slew of other savory delights here, but you can top off the meal with what is already becoming their signature dessert dish: rolled ice cream.

Salzy 505 5th Avenue salzybar.com Looking for some laid-back, grown-up fun? This new cocktail bar and live music venue is already a hit with the late-night crowd. Salzy serves quality craft cocktails but leaves out pretention. The warm service, inviting vibes, and solid tunes make this newcomer feel like an old neighborhood standby already. Owned and operated by comedian Jennifer Salzman, the bar also features live comedy and musical acts, placing it a notch above a regular old watering hole, but with the same comfort and approachability.

Los Nopales 191 5th Avenue There’s never been a lack of Tex-Mex in the Slope. Unfortunately, if you wanted a taste of real-deal Mexican tacos or quesadillas, you were better off heading much further south to Sunset Park. Hopefully that will all change with Los Nopales opening in the old Bierkraft space on Fifth Avenue, which promises to feature “authentic Mexican spices and condiments” on their menu.

Atlantic Social 673 Atlantic Avenue Having closed both Pork Slope and Thistle Hill Tavern, the Three Kings Restaurant Group is already onto their next venture: an “old style New York tavern” occupying the 7,000-square-foot space. Their largest endeavor yet, the restaurant will seat up to 250 and feature and an eclectic menu by Chef Dale Talde, a cozy fireplace, and a game room.

Also check out: Mis Grill 370 5th Avenue Pig Beach Burger 480 Union Street Momo Ramen 78 5th Avenue Nargis Café 155 5th Avenue

 

Community:

FemGYN 175 7th Avenue femgynwellness.com This women’s walk-in clinic opened back in May and is making female-focused healthcare affordable and accessible. Services offered include contraceptives, breast cancer screening, annual exams, specialist referrals, and more. Given the uncertain fate of the Affordable Care Act and threats to defund family planning organizations, FemGYN couldn’t have come at a better time.

Park Slope Reading Circle & Storytelling Garden 431 6th Avenue bklynlibrary.org/locations/parkslope Thanks to funding from Brad Lander’s Participatory Budget, construction of this public reading circle adjacent to the Park Slope branch of the Brooklyn Public Library is underway. The addition will provide a safe and beautiful space to encourage outdoor reading and play and will feature an amphitheater, pathways, gardening spaces, a water fountain, and a statue of Knuffle Bunny. Who’s excited for spring?

The next New Wave is coming this Spring.  If you are a new business and want to be included, contact us at office@psreader.com

 

 

Filed Under: New Wave Tagged With: coffee, community, Entertainment, Food & Drinks

Blueberry & Lemon Buttermilk Cake with Caramelized Peaches and Whipped Cream Recipe

August 5, 2015 By Nancy Lippincott Filed Under: Eat Local Tagged With: blueberry, cake, lemon, olivia williamson, peaches, recipe, summer

One of my favorite memories growing up was my family’s annual camping trip to the Poconos in August. The highlight of the trip was hiking with my older sister through the woods and down to the lakeside where the blueberry bushes were laden with plump berries at their peak. We’d spend the afternoons getting lost in the thick going from one bush to another, picking until our gallon jugs were full and we were thoroughly exhausted from the heat and mosquito bites.

Gorging ourselves on handfuls of berries on the hike back was the immediate reward, but the ultimate payoff was waking up the next morning to our mother’s blueberry pancakes sizzling in a cast-iron pan on the campfire.

This summer nostalgia is recaptured in this recipe adapted from local personal chef, Olivia Williamson as a rustic buttermilk cake, brightened with lemon and complemented by grilled peaches—bringing those summer campfire flavors full circle.

To find the best summer fruit, head straight to any one of the local greenmarkets where bushels of peaches and cartons of blueberries are in abundance come August. Blueberries will not ripen after harvest, so be sure to look for cartons of dark, firm berries with no red tinges. Avoid ones with soft, watery, or moldy fruit. Ripe peaches should yield slightly to a gentle squeeze and have a delicate, flowery smell and skin without green patches or wrinkles. Peaches will continue to ripen after they are picked, so if you plan on making the recipe the same day, opt for the juiciest, as they will have the most sugar and caramelize the best.

Blueberry & Lemon Buttermilk Cake with Caramelized Peaches and Whipped Cream Recipe

photo2

Ingredients:
1 1/2 cup sugar plus 1/4 cup for peaches
1 cup room temperature unsalted butter
4 large eggs
3 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
Zest of one lemon
Juice of two lemons
One pint of blueberries, cleaned
4 peaches
Whipped cream (optional)

For the Cake:
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Liberally grease a bundt pan with butter.
Beat sugar and butter in a standing mixer until light and creamy.
Add eggs one at a time to butter-sugar mixture, allowing each egg to incorporate completely before adding the next.
In a medium bowl, sift together dry ingredients.
In another medium bowl, combine the buttermilk, lemon juice, and zest.
Begin adding the dry and wet ingredients to the butter-sugar mixture, alternating 3 times until all are combined.
Gently fold in the blueberries by hand using a rubber spatula.
Pour batter in a bundt pan and bake at 350°F for 1 hour. The cake is done when a skewer comes out clean.

For the Grilled Peaches:
Clean and wedge the peaches and dust them in sugar. Slowly caramelize the peach segments on medium-high heat until browned to perfection. (Alternatively, you could grill the peaches over an open flame, using the same method.)

To Serve:
Once the cake has cooled, slice and serve with grilled peaches and a dollop of whipped cream.
Serves 8.

Filed Under: Eat Local Tagged With: blueberry, cake, lemon, olivia williamson, peaches, recipe, summer

A Taste of Fifth

May 11, 2015 By Nancy Lippincott Filed Under: Eat Local

On Wednesday, April 1, A Taste of Fifth—hosted by The Fifth Avenue Business Improvement District—showcased the culinary offerings of more than sixty local food and beverage heavy hitters. Participants included both veteran and newbie restaurants along Park Slope’s Fifth Avenue, complemented with libations by wine and spirit vendors and craft breweries. The night was a rousing success, with sold out attendance and proceeds supporting local nonprofit organizations.

Grand Prospect Hall
Grand Prospect Hall

Under the chandelier-lit glow of the elegant Grand Prospect Hall, foodies from all corners of the Slope came to meet their favorite restaurateurs and imbibe with their neighbors. On one of the first spring evenings of the year, participants showed off their signature dishes and cocktails to a hungry and thirsty crowd of Park Slopers.

The best in show was the brand new Vietnamese gastropub, Bricolage, headed up by Chef Lien Lin from The Slanted Door in San Francisco. Plates couldn’t be replenished fast enough for an eager line swooping up the beef tendon carpaccio with cilantro, onion, peanut, and white anchovy. 

Beef Tendon Carpaccio from Bricolage
Beef Tendon Carpaccio from Bricolage

Other crowd favorites included Prospect Bar and Grill, as the buzz about their meltingly tender brisket and oozing mac and cheese seemed to be the icebreaker among guests as they mingled.  And the much celebrated, local favorite Stone Park turned heads with a simple and brightly-flavored grilled octopus soup with preserved lemon. 

Diners line up for brisket and mac and cheese prepared by Prospect Bar & Grill.
Diners line up for brisket and mac and cheese prepared by Prospect Bar & Grill.

While stomach space had to be judiciously rationed out, there were no regrets about sacrificing some in the name of thick-sliced smoked salmon and a cream cheese schmear at Beygl’s table.  And who could resist scarfing a slice of Two Boots’ Bayou Beast, having just arrived steaming from the pizza oven?

The beverage world represented just as hard.  With the almost overwhelming amount of food tables to hit up over two hours, a breather at Greenhook Ginsmiths’ table sipping Old Tom Gin with bitter lemon soda freshened the palate and staved off an impending food coma. The rosé from Rioja poured by Acme Wines & Spirits was a welcomed reminder of the summer wine season just around the corner, and Coco Roco treated guests to a surprising—maybe even scandalous—take on the Peruvian national cocktail, the pisco sour.

Greenhook Ginsmiths
Greenhook Ginsmiths

Much of the crowd topped off the evening feast with a powerful shot of Gorilla Coffee and a sweet finale with desserts from The Chocolate Room and Le Pain Quotidien. 

After breaking it down on the dancefloor, stuffed-to-the-brim attendees teetered out, content from a fantastic evening and with a renewed appreciation for the talent on what is arguably the tastier Fifth Avenue in New York.  From one food lover to another, it’s going to be a delicious spring here in Park Slope.

 For  more information about upcoming events, check out parkslopefifthavenuebid.org

Filed Under: Eat Local

Natural Selection

January 16, 2015 By Nancy Lippincott Filed Under: Eat Local

The good, the earthy, and the funky: How natural wine is making a splash in Park Slope’s wine culture.

“So you know how when you get out of the shower, little drops of water cling to the hair on your arms? Well the hairs are trapping oxygen.  That’s why the winemaker lined his vats in cow’s hide.” Phillipe Essome, or “Fifi” as he goes by, was explaining what, to me, was the very surprising process that went into the bottle of pais he had pulled off the shelf in his boutique on Vanderbilt Avenue, Passage de la Fleur.

Natural-Selection_Passage-de-la-Fleur
Passage de la Fleur

Passage de la Fleur is one of the newer wine shops in the neighborhood, and it happens to exclusively sell natural wine.  It’s part of a growing trend—not just in retail—but with many local restaurants. Peruse the wine lists of many local, notable establishments and you’ll probably notice footnotes demarcating things like biodynamic, organic, and sustainable.  While these terms may appeal to locavores and socially-conscious gourmands, they are also indicators that you might find yourself with a glass of something unique and special.  Anthony Mastropolo, General Manager of The Pines in Gowanus explains, “We actually are one of the only places in NYC that has a 100-percent natural wine list. We always have and plan on keeping it that way. I think our general opinion of natural wine is that it goes really well with food. Some of the super earthy, funky wines are a fantastic pair for our dry-aged duck breast or ribeye steaks.”

But what exactly is natural wine? Depends on who you ask.  “Natural wine” isn’t a standardized term and it casts a wide net.

On one end of the spectrum, it can be like my bottle of pais purchased at Passage de la Fleur.  The producer, Luis-Antoine Luyt, is a native Burgundian now living and making wine in the Maule Valley of Chile, and he’s one of the seminal figures heading up terroir-driven, minimal intervention winemaking methods in a region historically dominated by more industrial models. Luyt’s methods are as close as you’re likely to get to leaving the process to mother nature.  The grapes are sourced either from local farmers or grown on rented, unirrigated vines on land worked only by horsepower.  This particular wine was fermented  in open-air tanks lined with a cow’s hide to introduce oxygen (which aids in the development of the yeasts and fosters the maturation of the wine.)  Instead of introducing yeast into the juice, Luyt let mother nature take over—a process often referred to as spontaneous or wild fermentation.  Whatever strain of native yeast was blowing around in the air of the Maule Valley was the strain that came in contact with the juice, did the dance of fermentation, and eventually resulted in what ended up in my glass.

These wines in particular are likely to deliver some surprising and off-the-wall tasting notes. They tend to have a funkiness to them—different animals altogether from the bigger, popular labels you may be used to.  Yeasty, earthy, and barnyardy are going to be terms that come to mind when quaffing this stuff.  You might even get a little hit of effervescence with that first glass—often a result of some secondary fermentation.

On the other hand, wines being produced just hours away from Park Slope in New York’s own wine regions such as the Finger Lakes and Long Island tend to be a little less unorthodox in their winemaking methods but are still making waves among natural wine lovers, nonetheless.  For winemakers in these regions, there is a strong emphasis on preserving the local ecosystem and being kinder to the environment.  The Long Island Sustainable Winegrowers (LISW) encourage local wineries to “make an attempt” at employing natural methods, such as using fewer herbicides and pesticides whenever possible: “[LISW] believe that vineyards should work in harmony with our natural world leaving the land we steward in better condition than when we found it, building a community between vineyards, workers, and the land.”

Natural wines from these regions maybe not be quite as esoteric or funky as those fermented in vats of cowhide, but these more hands-off methods have allowed grapes grown in New York’s own soil to express their own terroir.  New World wines, particularly those from the east coast of the United States, have garnered a bad rap over the years as being overly manipulated, high-alcohol, “fruit bombs.”  Lately though, New York wines especially are starting to move past that reputation, much in thanks to a more hands-off, Old World approach being employed in more and more local wineries.

Natural-Selection_John-Tucker
John Tucker at Rose Water

By and large, natural winemaking is actually more about what you’re not doing to the wine.  Pesticides are only the beginning when it comes to human intervention in the winemaking process.  Every decision the vigneron makes will have an impact on how the grape ends up expressing itself in the glass.  There are actually a couple hundred additives that can be introduced throughout the process—including anything from sugar, yeast, sulfites, and even colorants—which will end up manipulating the final product.   When a winemaker begins to pull back, that’s when you really get a sense of terroir—that sense of place, time, climate, and soil that makes wine lovers wax poetic.

And really, that is maybe what makes natural wine so intriguing and special.  John Tucker, owner of Rose Water in Park Slope, is a big champion of natural winemakers, and over the course of the past eight years has transitioned the restaurant’s wine list to feature natural wines almost exclusively. “I opened a natural, sustainable restaurant and [Rose Water’s wine list] is just an extension of that.” He goes on to note that the transparency of the winemaker’s methods makes these selections more preferable.  Though there is a fashionable element to supporting the organic and sustainable agriculture movement, he also points out that this transparency translates into the glass.  “It tastes like honest wine.”

And as Tucker points out, that is why there is such a growing interest by local somms, retailers, and consumers. “When push comes to shove, and you’re burying your nose deep in a glass of wine—at least for the connoisseurs—it doesn’t necessarily matter how these wines are produced. It matters how they are drank.” Matthew Stucky, General Manager of James in Prospect Heights, adds that these wines tend to make it onto their list because they’re just good.  “We have quite a few sustainable wines on our list, but I’ll be honest with you, we never seek them out. More often than not we land on producers who are making wines that are organic, sustainable, or biodynamic. That being said, I am a fan of anything organic and sustainable and feel happy to be able to offer such great wines to our guests.”

Brian Mitchell at Brookvin
Brian Mitchell at Brookvin

The natural wine movement isn’t necessarily breaking new ground, though, as it is taking many steps back.  Natural winemaking has been practiced for centuries in Old World regions long before the terms “organic” and “sustainable” were in vogue.  While someone like Luyt may be seen as a renegade in highly industrialized New World regions like Chile, his methods draw upon knowledge and experience cultivated over many generations in his native Burgundy.

Brian Mitchell of Brookvin in South Slope observes, “I think what we’re seeing here is that people are trying to get back to how wines were made years ago.”  Having recognized the growing appeal in natural wines, Mitchell has included a couple selections produced in this more traditional style, like the airén, a Spanish orange wine made from a varietal primarily used in brandy production.

It’s worth mentioning that natural isn’t always a guarantor of quality.  There are many factors and processes that go into producing a great bottle of wine, and the very definition of what natural wine means is hotly debated among oenophiles.  Furthermore, you’re not necessarily going to see natural wines obviously labeled as such.  The real joy, though, in exploring this area of the wine world is in engaging with local sommeliers, shop owners, and restaurateurs. Not only can they help you identify what you’re looking for, but chances are they will enthusiastically share the unique stories behind each bottle on their shelves and wine lists. ◆

Here’s a list of where to begin your own exploration of natural wine:

Big Nose, Full Body
382 7th Avenue
bignosefullybody.comBrookvin
381 7th Avenue
brookvin.comFermented Grapes
651 Vanderbilt Avenue
fermentedgrapes.net
James
605 Carlton Avenue
jamesrestaurantny.comPassage de la Fleur
573 Vanderbilt Avenue
passagedelafleur.comThe Pines
284 3rd Avenue
thepinesbrooklyn.com
Red, White, & Bubbly
211 5th Avenue
mybrooklynwine.comRose Water
787 Union Street
rosewaterrestaurant.comSip Fine Wine
67 5th Avenue
sipfinewine.com
Slope Cellars
436 7th Avenue
slopecellars.com

 

Filed Under: Eat Local

Nicole C. Kear: Out of the Dark

July 18, 2014 By Nancy Lippincott Leave a Comment Filed Under: The Reader Interview

Nicole Kear has been a beloved columnist with us at Park Slope Reader for more than a decade.  Little did we know, though, that during these past twelve years she was hiding a big secret.  Back when Kear was in college, she was diagnosed with a degenerative eye disease which doctors told her would eventually lead to blindness.  Over the course of the next fifteen years Kear had kept this diagnosis a secret from everyone except for her immediate family.

That all has changed, however, with the release of her debut memoir, Now I See You, a comedic, yet endearingly honest account of love, life, and starting a family before the lights go out.

We sat down with Kear to discuss her new book and “coming out” with her disease.

Park Slope Reader: When did you decide you were going to write this memoir?

Nicole C. Kear: Maybe five years ago I started working on a proposal for a different memoir—a mommy memoir, essentially like the stuff I wrote for Park Slope Reader—without the entire component of my eyes.  I completely left it out of the 100-page proposal.  My agent tried to sell it and unsurprisingly was not able to. After that didn’t work, I thought what can I add to this story to make it more compelling?  It’s like when you’re watching a movie and are like, yea…duh!

PSR: Was it an active or unconscious decision to leave that out?

NK: It wasn’t active at all.  It was a total default…like a crazy person.

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PSR: As a writer, did you journal every day?

NK: No, I don’t even shower every day! The way that it came to be was my husband and I were going away for the night.  Finally he was like, “Nicole, you can write about your eyes.”  “Of course!”  As soon as he said that I was like, what’s wrong with me?!

It’s funny thinking about that now.  When I was in college and I got my diagnosis and still fresh, I took this seminar called 20th Century Feminist Spiritual Autobiography taught by a female rabbi and a nun and a minister.  We read these amazing memoirs about women and had to write our own.  I wrote this piece called “Star Light, Star Bright” and it is the college version of my book.  But so that is kind of where it started…then I became crazy and didn’t tell anyone for fifteen years so it became something that wasn’t a possibility.  So when my husband mentioned it, I thought, that is not only a great idea but the only idea.

PSR: That must have been terrifying though—this part of your life that you actively kept inside.  How did you go back to your memoir and add that component?

NK: I didn’t go back.  I started from scratch.  It’s a completely different book.  Even the characters are different.  Because you know at first, it wasn’t really me.  It didn’t have a huge life-determining factor to it.  It was a completely different novel.

I started to write and it took me so long to write something decent.  I had been writing for years and it had become so habitual to omit any reference to my vision loss.

So I was like, you know what?  I’ll write a scene.  I’ll tell the story of when my son was a baby and I was so tired that I tried to throw myself on the bed.  I didn’t see it, and I fell onto the floor.  So I wrote that scene and literally, I didn’t know how to write that and tell the truth of it.  I was so used to telling people the fake version.

PSR: Was that an emotional experience for you?

NK: Yes.  The good part about it was the humor.  I was able to find the humor in almost all of it.  It allowed me to feel comfortable doing it.  It’s depressing!  But because I gave myself permission to share the humor of it, that really tempered it for me.  It was difficult, but it was also enjoyable.

PSR: That was such a big component of the book.  It’s a heavy subject and a sad story.  But you have this way of balancing it out and this ability to laugh at yourself.  Was that something you always had with you growing up or did you develop that after your diagnosis as a way of coping?

NK:  That’s just an innate thing with me.  I’ve always had that temperament.  As I grew older, it’s something that I strengthened and turned to.  I’ve always been a person who likes to laugh, and frankly, make other people laugh.  I genuinely do feel like an optimistic person.  And it really does help just to laugh about it.

That was hard for me in writing about it, because there is a very fine line between being glib and humorous.  I really feel like my book is a tragic comedy.  It has both sides of the mask, and it is a delicate balance.  The first iterations of the book were very funny—or pathetically trying too hard—but they were trying to be funny.

I would share my drafts with my friends and they would point out that I basically didn’t talk about my vision.  I really didn’t want to discuss it! I thought it would be so heavy and depressing, so I put in as little of that as possible.  My friends and my agent really had to press me.  I was so scared of being too dark.  Extracting the raw honesty of it was really challenging for me.

PSR: Why the ongoing secret throughout your life?  Your career as an actress, as you explain in the book, prompted this decision.  Why keep it going throughout your life after the fact?

NK: Really it was force of habit.  In the beginning the reasoning was more that it was an irrelevant fact.  In my early twenties it didn’t hamper me at all.  I didn’t really need to tell people for any practical reasons…and then there were a lot of compelling reasons not to tell people because, as you say, I was an actress.  It’s so hard to get work anyway you don’t want to give people extra reasons, especially when they’re not relevant!

But then they became more relevant.  And I had become so accustomed to not telling people and compensating.  And it’s hard—this is the thing that’s difficult about any progressive condition.  It just keeps changing and it’s hard to keep changing along with it in response.  Change is difficult.  I was waiting for an obvious cut-off point, or a breaking point.  But it was more of a series of small rock bottoms, not enough to actually trigger any change.

And once you don’t tell people something like that, it becomes very awkward!  Imagine telling people “Oh I’ve known you for ten years and we’ve lived together, we’re roommates and I totally forgot to tell you this one thing!”  So I didn’t do it.  But now I had to do it.  It’s been so weird, but really good.

As I anticipated, it’s an uncomfortable conversation to have…especially within the context of “I wrote this memoir!”

PSR: Now that your children are getting older, they must have known—it’s something that has been part of their existence.  Did you think about them eventually spilling the beans?

NK: It’s true, it would have been untenable to keep this going.  Kids are big blabbermouths.  They were so young and they knew so little.  I gave them little kid-sized morsels of information.  Now they know more because they’re older, and it’s convenient because now everyone knows!

PSR: Was there any sense of betrayal from people that were close to you who didn’t know?

NK: There was no betrayal.   People have been so understanding.  Really.  And I think because now they can read the whole book about why I didn’t tell them and read the whole back story.  The best part about it is A. the release—that conversation’s over and I don’t have to dread it anymore—and B. it’s opened the door to new conversations and deepened friendships, as any act of honesty will.

Filed Under: The Reader Interview

Letting the Elephant in the Tent

January 17, 2014 By Nancy Lippincott Leave a Comment Filed Under: Journey to Health Tagged With: brooklyn boulders, marial arts, qi gong, rock climbing, wellness, winter

Full disclosure: towards the end of the fall, my editor assigned me a story on winter wellness.  At the time, I was in some of the best shape of my life.  I was about to run my third marathon, I was taking care of myself, eating right, going to bed early, and striking a nice balance between work and rest.  Then it all fell apart.  The day after I ran the Philadelphia marathon, my live-in boyfriend of nine years ended our relationship. There was very little explanation.  He was unhappy, we weren’t working anymore . . . it took all of two hours before my life, as I knew it, crumbled in front of me.

Just a few days before, I was obsessing over getting enough sleep, eating right, and abstaining from alcohol for one of the biggest physical challenges of my life, and now here I was, 48 hours later on the complete opposite side of the physical and mental health spectrum.  I spent the next couple of weeks couch surfing, living out of the trunk of my car, suffering panic attacks, and vomiting into trash cans.  My work was suffering and I had hit an all-time low—in body, mind, and spirit.  Perfect time to tackle an article on winter wellness, right?

The funny thing is, it probably was.  I was starting from ground zero and had to start building myself  back up.

The first leg of my journey landed me in the lobby of Brooklyn Boulders.  Not only was I sleep-deprived, but I hadn’t eaten in a couple of days.  I walked in, and truth be told, I was a little intimidated.  First thing in the morning and the place was already buzzing with smiling faces, lean bodies, and Wu Tang Clan thumping over the sound system.  But then I was warmly greeted by Luke Livesy, the curriculum director and all-around nice guy.  We plopped down on the couch and Luke started to share his own story about how he fell in love with the sport.  “I started climbing six years ago,” explained Luke.  “When I came here I started as a guy at the front desk, and then, well, eventually I ended up where I am now.”  He went on to explain his personal transition from skateboarder in England to rock climbing aficionado here in Brooklyn.

“So what do you think?  Are you ready to try it yourself?” he asked.  After a 20-minute crash course, I stared head on at the climbing wall looking skeptically at an alien puzzle of shapes and figures.  “You have to figure out your route,” he said.

So, not unlike a 3-year-old, I stood and tried to decipher the shapes and colors, figuring out where to start my ascent, where my next move would take me, and then the next.  I thought I had it all figured out.  And then . . . it came to actually doing it.

Turns out climbing the wall and looking at it are actually two very different things.  Once you’re up there, it’s very hard to see where to plant your feet.  In a bout of self-consciousness, I took my first grip.  My plan went out the window.  I needed to get to the top, but I was getting tired and terrified immediately.  My muscles weren’t used to this type of fast-twitch anaerobic challenge.  I wanted to give up right away.  But meanwhile, my buddy below offered encouragingly, “Hey there Nancy, you have a foothold there on your right.  Use that for support!”  (Is this sounding oddly metaphorical? Well, in my mind it did.  Thanks, Luke.)

So bit-by-bit, I made my less-than-graceful way to the top with a little guidance from my friend.  I was unsure of myself the entire time, ready to fall and embarrass myself, and each and every time, Luke cheered me on and pushed me to the next hold.  Eventually I was inches away from the top.  “Go for it, grab the top!”  My heart was racing and I had zero faith in my muscles to finish the task.  But then I did.  And there I was, clinging to the top of the wall like panicked spider monkey.  I solved the puzzle and made it.

By the way, when you free-climb, you have to get down.  “Luke!” “What DO I DO??!” I bellowed.

“Let Go!  I’ll help fix your fall!” he called back.  That was the best thing I’ve heard in a very long time.  I was about to let go and plummet to a mat of undisclosed thickness under me and I was going to just trust a man I met less than an hour ago.  I let go.

I didn’t bust my ass.  I didn’t bust anything, actually.  It felt really good to let go and just land.  Luke explained, “Children have less fear than we do.  They don’t brace themselves for impact.  Adults are the ones that need the most help learning how to fall.”  True story, brother.  I felt like I had been doing a lot of falling lately, and more than anything, I was terrified of getting hurt again.  Luke, not knowing me more than a half an hour, was ready to make sure that didn’t happen.

I highly suggest taking a lesson from the staff at Brooklyn Boulders.  Whether you’re familiar with the sport or are a complete newbie, a quick tutorial will unlock a lot of the mystery and alleviate some potential fears.  For complete beginners, you will learn the basics of how to move your body, and for more seasoned climbers, there’s such a wealth of experience and knowledge that you will be sure to refine your technique and take your game to the next level.  But no matter what, I recommend everyone give the sport a chance, as there’s no better feeling than making it to the top.

The next leg of the journey led me to the home of Michael McComiskey, a healer and practitioner of Qi Gong, and who I will forever refer to as the Park Slope Jedi Master.  I had nearly zero reference points when it came to Qi Gong, but the very first thing Michael taught me was that you can’t pronounce it unless your eyes are closed.  “It’s pronounced chi gong” Michael said with a chuckle.  So I closed my eyes, said chi gong, and then there I was ready to channel some new mojo with the help of a grinning man whose shirt read “Keep Calm and Use and The Force.”

“Qi is life force, and in Chinese, that is a very rich concept.  Qi manifests itself in many ways.  It’s your aliveness.  It’s also the level of energy you feel.  Your enthusiasm.  When your Qi is high, you’re optimistic, you’re vibrant.”  (My Qi was most definitely not high as of late. So I was intrigued about how to get it up again.)

Qi Gong is thousands of years old and was started by ancient Chinese shamans, or wu, and was later refined by Buddhist and Taoist monks.  Qi Gong is a three-fold concept, and as Michael explained, “it’s a physical wellness practice that literally produces healthiness.  It’s a meditative practice, as it’s very mind-calming and clearing.  And then it’s very much a Qi-cultivating practice.” The body has a steady stream of electrical currents pulsing through it constantly, and Qi Gong is all about channeling that energy to boost your energy, centeredness, and aliveness.

In fact, Michael referred to his practice as a form of healing, and not so much a fitness-related activity.  “The Chinese don’t believe in no pain, no gain.”  My ears perked up.  Getting through the marathon was all about working past the pain.  It was intense, taxing, even devastating at times.  Now, someone was telling me that I could achieve wellness through a peaceful and intuitive approach, working with my body, not against it.  It’s all built on slow, gentle, repetitive movements.  “The idea is that each movement has it’s own particular gift.  Over the past few thousands of years, people have figured out a lot of different ways to move and reap the benefits from the variations.”

While Qi Gong has hundreds of possible movements, we started with one simple exercise.  “Relax your knees, tilt your hips forward, round your neck slightly.  We are elongating the spine, and creating space for the energy to flow,” he began. We then took deep, long breaths, inhaling and exhaling slowly as we rocked back and forth from heal to toe, raising our arms with the inhale, lowering them with the exhale.  I felt it after the first few repetitions.  This was possibly the first time in weeks that I was able to breath fully.  Michael explained that when our bodies are full of anxiety and stress, it’s nearly impossibly to take a full, deep breath.  Having suffered several panic attacks as of late, this simple exercise was offering some much-needed release and relaxation.

In addition to exploring two practices for the mind and body, I mustn’t leave out what spending time with two new, kind faces did for the spirit.  Winter is a rough season for many of us, especially in the Northeast. Dramatic break-ups aside, 10 million people suffer from seasonal affective disorder every year, according to the National Institutes of Health, which also cites social isolation as a risk factor for depression in adults. Social interaction is an important form of self-care that should not go neglected even if all you want to do is stay inside and binge-watch Netflix alone.

Regardless of the hostile conditions outside, inside, or in my case, both, making space for new people and experiences is a simple way to improve our well-being during a time of year when we are vulnerable to sickness, depression, and boredom. Why not open yourself up to a new practice this winter? As Michael’s parting advice: “After the elephant enters the tent, the tent will never be the same again.”

Filed Under: Journey to Health Tagged With: brooklyn boulders, marial arts, qi gong, rock climbing, wellness, winter

How to Make It In Park Slope

October 11, 2013 By Nancy Lippincott Leave a Comment Filed Under: Shop Local

Last year Fornino, which had opened in 2010, closed its doors. Nothing too unusual, right? Businesses come and go here in the Slope. It’s not always pleasant, but it’s been the cruel reality of the circle of life on commercial strips like Fifth and Seventh Avenues. However, Here’s Park Slope, a website monitoring the shifting of facades in the neighborhood, gave us all a scare when they shared the landlord’s hope to lease the space to a chain like McDonalds or Olive Garden.

Aside from the obvious horrors of Happy Meals or unlimited soup, salad, and breadstick lunches, the rumor seemed to be the harbinger of something much more depressing—that it’s only going to get harder for local business owners to compete with corporate bohemoths.

While the Fornino space never did end up falling into the hands of the Darden Restaurant dynasty, we were left wondering what it takes for the little guy to hack it in a neighborhood with such fierce competition and ever-rising rents.

To answer this question, we decided to go straight to the source and talk to three business new to the neighborhood.  Here is what they have to say about how to make it in Park Slope:

Lisa & Jamie – photo by Lisa Madison

StoryKeep

Two-and-a-half years ago, Lisa Madison and Jamie Yuenger started a business concept no one was searching for, at least not on the web. “The biggest challenge with our business is that we’re not something anyone Googles,” explains Madison. “We have few competitors, but we also face the challenge of explaining to people what we are.”

Madison and Yuenger first crossed paths in 2010 when working on a documentary film together. Madison was a freelancer in the field, and Yuenger was working in broadcasting for WNYC. Both had a mutual love for storytelling and history, and in 2011 they found a way to turn their passions into their livelihoods when they founded StoryKeep. StoryKeep is a service that creates multimedia portraits of families and businesses. Their projects have ranged from interviews with oldest living family members, to historical preservation projects with civic organizations.

“One of the biggest lessons we learned was realizing what we we’re not,” explains Madison. In a time when services like Ancestry.com are making big business off of genealogy, the women had to figure out how to differentiate themselves as storytellers from fact-finders. “Family history is about how stories are told,” says Yuenger. “There aren’t a lot of family heirlooms these days, so we’re hoping to create something that can passed down and shared through generations,” adds Madison.

“The biggest piece of advice I can give to others is don’t expect the first two years to be easy!” says Madison.  In a field where there are few predecessors to learn from, the women had to figure things out on their own, from the production process, to marketing, to creating a successful working relationship. Documenting the personal lives of their clients has been a long, ongoing lesson in trust and relationship-building, and so has their developing their business partnership. “Working together is like managing an intense relationship. You have to be in tune with each other, you’re dependent on each other financially, and you’re going to be with each other twelve hours a day,” explains Yuenger.

All the hard work and trust in one another has paid off, though. Yuenger and Madison have quadrupled their clientele and are looking forward to growing their team.

photos by Rachael Olmi

Marbelous

Remember when you were a little kid playing arts and crafts or opening a lemonade stand with your best friend? Maybe you tossed around the idea of flipping those macramé bracelets for some cash or slinging that juice for a quarter? That’s sort of how Marbelous started.

Rachael Stone Olmi and Sue Kramer are best friends with two parallel lives. They bought brownstones on the same block, both married charming Europeans, and have daughters born on the same day and named them Tess and Lutèce, who are also best friends. One day when the families were on vacation together, the girls made clay marble necklaces and gifted them to their moms. Stone Olmi and Kramer realized they had something special after wearing them out and about the first week. “I called Sue and asked ‘Did you get stopped four times on the street wearing your necklace?’ People were asking us where we bought them,” remembers Stone Olmi. All of the comments and compliments from their friends and neighbors got them thinking this could get bigger.

Their daughters conceived the whole idea, and Stone Olmi and Kramer were there to handle setting up the business end of things. While the girls had play dates and brainstormed new designs, the moms set up a Facebook page and started showcasing their work to local boutiques. The first big break was walking into Diana Kane Boutique. “She bought them all,” explains Kramer, “and she ended up selling out of them four times.” Word about the necklaces started spreading virally through the community and beyond. The girls were seeing their classmates sporting them at P.S. 321, and the moms caught wind of people Amy Poehler and Alan Cumming rocking their daughters’ creations. They are now in nine different boutiques throughout the country, and Kramer and Stone Olmi couldn’t be prouder of their daughters.

“Marbelous is about friendship and spreading goodness, and that part of the company is about giving. Ten percent of yearly profits go to Autism Speaks,” shares Kramer. It was their daughters’ stipulation from the beginning that a portion of the profits be donated to a meaningful cause.

Both women have a strong business sense grounded in creative fields. Stone Olmi comes from an interior design background and Kramer is a writer and director. “We feed off their creativity and get back down to that level and see things from their eyes, and they learn things from the business point of view. But we share details with them about business and money,” explains Stone Olmi. “As the kids grow up and the business grows, they will learn about profit and loss and other things that will teach them business sense,” adds Kramer.

Though both moms are far too modest to toot their own horns, when pressed, Kramer hints to the positive impact this could be having on their daughters’ self-perception: “The whole girl power of it all is really awesome. It’s just us gals.”

The Walk-in Cookbook

For the two years he worked as a banker in London, Guido Molinari ate nothing but take-out. After a long day at work, the last thing he wanted to do was plan a meal, go food shopping, and then spend more time cooking for himself. His business partner, Filip Nuytemans, had a similar experience during his years working as a consultant for Nestle. He spent eleven months out of the year on the road and was at the mercy of whatever hotel restaurants and airlines put in front of him, wishing there was an easier way for him to learn how to prepare healthy, delicious meals for himself.
In 2012 the gentlemen took their mutual culinary plight and turned it into a business plan. “It’s a fundamental difference between life now and before,” explains Molinari. “Our grandparents had something different going on. Now, we are young professionals, or couple who are both working, and despite these responsibilities we want to make sure our day ends in a fulfilling homemade meal.”
The Walk-in Cookbook is designed to make dinner more streamlined—and healthy—for people who already have a full plate. It works like this: Walk in, pick out a meal, and then fill your basket with the pre-portioned ingredients listed on the recipe card. All the meals are designed to take no more than thirty minutes to prepare, and you won’t be stuck with leftover ingredients doomed to camp out in your cabinet until the lease is up. The store features eighteen recipes at a time, including appetizers and mains (desserts are forthcoming), and also caters to customers who are gluten-free and vegetarian. They even offer local delivery to Park Slope and Prospect Heights. “We decided to get people to cook again. Make it fun. Make it fast. And they don’t have to worry too much about what they are going to buy,” says Nuytemans.

While the concept of The Walk-in Cookbook came from their guts, Nuytemans and Molinari took a measured, strategic approach when it came to putting things into practice. When scouting locations, the duo spent many a frigid afternoon sitting on the sidewalk counting pedestrians and collecting data. “At first people told us it wouldn’t work; we would have to change the way people thought about grocery shopping,” confesses Molinari. But as Nuytemans observes, “People in Brooklyn are the most receptive to innovation.”

That’s not to say they didn’t have to deal with their share of conflicts. Between building permits, renovations, and inspections, the process of opening the store in the former Noella Brew Bar space involved more money and time than anticipated. “That’s probably why corporations like Starbucks are moving in—because they have much more money to work with and navigating the red tape has been much easier. They’re able to pay their rent while they are sitting around waiting for approval on permits,” notes Nuytemans.

The upside is that these initial growing pains have helped inspire their conviction to support their fellow small business owners and source locally whenever possible.  Nuytemans explains that after months of waiting around for permits, approvals, and paying rent, the plight of the small businessman resonates with them on a visceral level.  “Opening a business here has made us understand why it’s so important to support what’s happening here locally.”

Filed Under: Shop Local

The Brewers Grimm

July 19, 2013 By Nancy Lippincott Leave a Comment Filed Under: Local Libations

Rules were made to be broken—or at least bended—according to Joe and Lauren Grimm, Gowanus’ newest pair of craft microbrewers.  It’s evident as we scurry across Grand Army Plaza, six pack in tow for an impromptu (albeit illegal) tasting in Prospect Park of their soon-to-launch craft brew line.

“I know how much the ticket is—it’s twenty-five dollars.  It’s worth it!  Just think about all the times you had beer in a bar and paid twenty-five dollars.”  It’s this healthy skepticism of rules and ends-justifies-the-means mentality that has defined the past eight years for the couple as they honed their craft of small-batch, Belgian style brewing.

It all started about eight years ago in Providence, Rhode Island.  They picked up a copy of Wild Fermentation by Sandor Katz and began experimenting with this natural black art of transformation, with some wickedly gone-wrong batches of mead and more successful goes at sauerkraut, kombucha, and finally beer.  As artists by trade—Lauren is a sculptor, and Joe is a musician—they came to realize that beer making was the perfect outlet for their creative impulses. When Joe came home from touring in Belgium, the couple was inspired to learn everything they could about beer, from sampling every available variety to voraciously reading up on home brewing.

Their years in Providence was a time of discovery and experimentation, but when the couple moved to Chicago they were ready to start showcasing their creations to the public.  Joe recalls: “One of the great things about Chicago is it’s filled with these do-it-yourself gallery spaces and art shows.  So we would talk to our friends and say we just made five gallons of this [beer], serve it at the art show, and people were really into it.  We got a lot of great feedback from people who said we should start a brewery, and eventually we listened to it.”

They made their first sale at “Nightmarket”—an informal pop-up marketplace where people could sell what they made in their kitchens—away from the prying eyes of the FDA.  Nightmarket reached a whole new level of illegality when Joe and Lauren showed up with a batch of their homebrew and started slinging it for three dollars a pop.  While it’s one thing to sell homemade pickles and cupcakes without a license, it’s entirely another to peddle homemade booze. No one at the market wanted ATF agents pounding down the door, so eventually the Grimms found a loophole by selling four-dollar Oreos that came with a free beer.

The operation has come a long way since those days—both figuratively and geographically—when the couple moved and settled into their home in Gowanus.  As I sit with them in Prospect Park, I am one of lucky ones to get a preview.

Our informal tasting starts with From the Hip, their debut beer slated to release this July.  It’s a Belgian blonde with a lively spiciness and a citrusy, slightly floral undertone resulting from the addition of organic rose hips.  It’s light, clean, and packs a bit of a punch at 8 percent alcohol.  But unlike many American interpretations of Belgian brews, this one has crisp finish.  Joe and Lauren point out the unfortunate, prevailing trend of making overly-spiced and cloying ales.  According to Joe, the addition of sugar and sweetener are often confused: “It’s like getting a shot of hazelnut syrup in your coffee.  It doesn’t make it more complex. It’s sweet and fake and tastes disgusting!” Paradoxically, the Grimms found that adding more sugar during fermentation will result in a higher alcohol content and drier finish. It’s something they’ve picked up straight from the Belgians and make them unique in style here in the States.

When it comes to their favorite style, though, saisons get the Grimms really excited. As Joe explains, it’s a process-driven brew.  While saisons characteristically exhibit spiciness and complexity, these flavors are usually entirely derived from the alchemy that takes place between the yeast and its food. Lauren bashfully confesses: “We actually have about six saisons brewing at home right now.  They are all identical, except for the yeast.  We’re tying to isolate which one is the best, and there’s definitely an early contender.”

This hands-off brewing philosophy reflects the personality of the two Grimms.  Joe and Lauren have done things their own way from the get-go. Apparently, starting your own brewery isn’t as easy as strolling up to the Small Business Administration and saying, “Hey, people like our beer, give us a million dollars”—although that’s almost exactly how they started off.

Originally, they thought they could get a loan and set up a brewery in Brooklyn. They began working with a non-profit affiliated with the SBA, but according to Joe, “All they did was shatter our hopes and dreams.” Undeterred, the couple explored a new way to launch their line: contract brewing. “We realized we didn’t need a million dollars in stainless steel brewing equipment to start a line,” explains Lauren.

They watched other microbrewers invest in the expensive equipment and facilities and dig themselves deeper and deeper into debt.  After a little research, however, they realized there was a way around it all.  They could lease space from another brewer and instruct them on how to carry out the fermentation according to their recipes, and in the meantime, save themselves a lot of money. This practice is actually quite common in the world of craft beer; even bigwigs like Sixpoint and Brooklyn Brewery have outsourced some of their production due to the exorbitant cost of real estate in the borough.

Joe and Lauren are taking the concept and running with it.  Every batch of Grimm beer will be unique.  As Joe puts it, it’s kind of like putting out an album: “We’re the band, the brewery is our recording studio, and the beer is our album.” Just like every recording studio produces it’s own unique sound, every brewing facility has its own nuance. All brewing equipment is different and requires the brewer’s finesse to a certain point. No matter how precise the recipe, there will always be slightly different results depending on where the beer is made.

The couple plans to coordinate the release of each beer with the every new season, each batch being a one-off, limited edition.  Think saisons in the summer, ryes in autumn, and rich, soul-warming porters in the winter.  Grimm Artisanal Ales will retail in twenty-two ounce bottles for around twelve to thirteen dollars, and you will also be able to find them on tap lists throughout the borough, beginning July 19th with their launch at The Double Windsor in South Slope.

While the couple undoubtedly is a little run and gun, like any good artists or craftsmen, they still believe that there are certain rules that exist for a reason.  While some of the best beer bars still serve their drafts in straight-walled, chilled pint glasses, Joe and Lauren earnestly make a case for a room-temperature goblets.

As I quaff the final beer, a black IPA, I understand.  It would be a loss to anyone drinking this unique treasure in a frosted glass at a freezing temperature.  It’s peaty and earthy—smells kind of like Prospect Park did right before the sky opened up and rained out our beer tasting.

Filed Under: Local Libations

Retaining Our Rain

April 15, 2013 By Nancy Lippincott Filed Under: Part of the Solution

As we board the subway, get in elevators, and jog down the sidewalks, we start to take for granted the feeling of pavement beneath our feet; it’s easy to forget that the structures around us have only been in place for about 300 years.

There’s a sense of comfort, after all, for us city dwellers—an assuring sense of groundedness and even permanence felt when making contact with New York’s foundation.  We even allude to it in our daily conversations; we “pound the pavement” to find success, and “kick to the curb” things we want to discard.  Is there anything in this world that invokes imagery of strength and efficiency like the concrete jungle?

If there’s ever a thing to snap one out of a state of urban sentimentalism it’s the foul stench that reeks from the waters of the Gowanus Canal.  It’s an offensive reminder of the constant give and take between environment and urban development.  In 2010, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency declared the canal one of the nation’s most polluted bodies of water, adding it to the Superfund list to join the ranks of our country’s most hazardous waste sites.  In December 2012, the EPA released a proposal detailing its plan to launch a ten-year, multi-million dollar cleanup of the canal.

Beth and Frieda | Photo by Jeane M. McLellan

I sit across the table from Beth Franz and Frieda Lim in Four and Twenty Blackbirds on Third Avenue, only 500 meters away from the canal.  These two women are well acquainted with the dichotomy of New York’s green and grey worlds and have invested their careers in reconciling this divide.  Franz is an associate at a landscape architecture firm and specializes in urban design and green infrastructure.  Lim owns Slippery Slope Farm in Gowanus, and was part of the team who brought the Edible Community Garden to P.S. 39.  Both have a thorough understanding of our urban ecosystem and are working to innovate the way we think about structure, its relationship to environment, and its potential pitfalls.

One of those pitfalls is storm water management.  Over 300 years ago, long before the factories, subway lines, or sewers of modern-day Brooklyn, there was the Gowanus Creek and its network of tributaries.  There were also trees, marshes, swamps, and fields that thrived off of rainfall, and animals that borrowed their own underground networks through the absorbent soil and loam that supported the world of surface dwellers.  When heavy storms rained down, the water replenished the streams, and the excess sunk into the earth.  The earth retained it for later, acting as a sort of sponge that could be squeezed for moisture in times of thirst.

This system was compromised when the Dutch began to settle and literally lay the foundation for what would become one of the largest cities in the world.  The natural green spaces of Brooklyn diminished to a mere fraction of what they were 300 years ago, and factories, shipyards, paved roads, and warehouses took their place.  With development came the removal of nature’s storm water management system and the installation of a manmade one.  The newly industrialized Brooklyn of the 1800s needed land on which to build factories, and those factories needed a place to dump their waste.  In 1848 the city approved the dredging of Gowanus Creek and the surrounding marshlands and began construction on the Gowanus Canal—one, big, open-air sewer.

We’ve come a long way since the days when it was acceptable to dump our waste straight into the canal, but what many may not realize is that this still happens, just less frequently.

The city uses a combined sewer system, which catches and transports both storm water runoff and raw sewage in the same pipes.  Under normal conditions, it works fine.  But when storms move in and produce an unusually high amount of rainfall, that’s when “shit happens.”

The overflow mechanism is triggered, and the spillover is flushed through combined sewer overflows (CSOs) straight into the nearest body of water.  The spillover is more than just rainwater.  It’s rainwater that has churned and mixed with everything we’ve all been dumping down the drain—soap, chemicals, cleaners, paint, oil, urine, feces, vomit—a slurry many living within the flood zones of Sandy dealt with firsthand.   Specifically, there are ten CSOs that dump into the Gowanus, and OH-007 is the second most active.

“It’s an enormous issue and huge environmental problem,” sighs Franz, “and what we want to do here in Park Slope will hopefully diminish our role in it.”  Lim and Franz are heading up the Environmental Gardens & Education Committee, which has proposed a local public works venture called P.S. 39 Stormwater Garden Initiative Program.  The initiative will repurpose space within the school grounds of P.S. 39, converting underutilized space into functional and beneficial solution to Park Slope’s storm water runoff.  Specifically, the committee plans on introducing green infrastructure to the schoolyard and front garden areas by adding bioswales—small gardens that catch storm water—and by swapping out the current concrete walkway with permeable pavers.

The Committee recognizes that space in the schoolyard is a luxury and has taken that into consideration.  Currently, the school’s perimeter fence is braced by metal structures that are not only a minor safety hazard for kids, but also eat up about a foot-and-a-half of space adjacent to the fence.  The bioswales will fill that void along the school’s perimeter and serve as a sponge-like interceptor to puddles and torrents that gush through after heavy rains.  The entrance of the school, which is currently paved with impenetrable slabs, will be resurfaced with permeable pavers with spacers that are more conducive to groundwater absorption.  Layers of gravel, sand, and mesh will protect the spaces so weeds won’t be able to grow in between.

It doesn’t sound all that complicated because it isn’t.  In total, the project is only estimated to cost about $125 thousand and can be implemented over the course of a couple months.  “Once installed, [the improvements] will be self-sustaining, requiring little maintenance and no additional manpower,” explains Franz.  “All of the plants will be native varieties and will be able to live entirely off of natural rainfall.”

The impact of these changes, however, would be meaningful. For one, the storm water runoff from P.S. 39 drains directly into OH-007, that second most offending outfall site.  While it’s tricky to guess exactly how much of that runoff will be reduced, Franz and Lim expect the new green infrastructure will divert a significant amount of storm water away from the outfall.

Lim looks at the table behind us where her daughter and niece giggle and play.  It’s clear that P.S. 39 was a strategically chosen as the site for this project for reasons other than its proximity to OH-007.

“We’re hoping this project will be a lesson for the kids that they can take home and pass along,” say Lim.  “It’s important to us that this be used as an educational tool.  We want people to take an interest in what this all is and see how it’s done.”

One of the main tenants of the plan addresses a current lack of sustainability education in our schools’ curriculums, as explained by Karen Herskowitz, P.S. 39’s parent coordinator: “Students at P.S. 39 are part of a future generation that will be faced with many environmental challenges.  Our children will be tasked with making innovative changes in the way our population lives or face dire consequences.”  If implemented, the project will be the first of its kind, and both Franz and Lim are excited about the prospect of Park Slope leading the way for future green infrastructure improvements throughout the city.

The P.S. 39 Stormwater Garden Initiative program was one of twenty other proposals competing for a piece of Representative Brad Lander’s $1 million Participatory Budget, which went to ballot on April 7.  Frieda, Lim, and the rest of the committee had hoped to win a favorable vote, but unfortunately, their project did not make the cut.  While  they are disappointed with the outcome, the Committee will continue to seek out alternative sources of financial support for their plan.


To learn more about the project and ways to get involved, visit the P.S. 39 Park Slope Stormwater Garden Initiative’s Facebook Page.

Filed Under: Part of the Solution

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