Park Slope Reader

eating local

Eating Local: A Balancing Act with Insa’s Sohui Kim

By Filed Under: Eat Local, Uncategorized Tagged With: , , ,

You may know Sohui Kim and Ben Schneider as the husband-wife duo behind Insa and The Good Fork, but on top of these two projects and a third restaurant in the works, they are also parents to two school age children. We talked to Sohui about the intrinsic value of work, what it’s like to be a mother and executive chef, and how she continues to balance it all with a new historical revival restaurant—Gage and Tollner—on the way.

Viviane Eng: So describe what it’s like to own multiple businesses while also parenting two kids enrolled in public schools.

Sohui Kim: Well, let me first get my drink… There are certainly a lot of balls in the air. We try to juggle everything: marriage, career, children. I liken a restaurant to putting on a show, with all its moving parts. At a restaurant like Insa, the staff is big and the scope is big. I mean, just its square footage is big so that means we need a lot of great people on the team to be there. As an executive chef and mom, it makes me feel I’m responsible for everybody, so sometimes it can feel like a little too much. And because my work is in restaurants, it always follows me home—the cell phone’s always on. 

VE: How do you and your husband split up the parenting responsibilities? 

SK: It’s often the case that one of us is home to care for the kids, and then we sort of tag team. Then there are certain days in the week where we say this is family day. Sadly, right now, that’s like one day a week. But no matter what you do, family comes first, so we try to prioritize and it usually works. I’ve never forgotten a kid at pickup. I’ve come close, but have never left anyone stranded, knock on wood! There’s certainly a lot of scheduling, especially on my end. As progressive as this family is and as progressive as I want to think this society is, I think the onus falls mostly on me as a mom to do the scheduling. I know plenty of family situations that are different, but I’m sort of better at it than my husband. It gets harry sometimes and stressful, but that’s all life. 

VE: Tell me about your restaurants and the decision to have kids after starting your first business. 

SK: We have three businesses. My husband and I opened the Good Fork in 2006, before we had any kids. It’s a small little neighborhood bistro in Red Hook where we live. I got pregnant with my daughter Jasper in 2007 and Oliver came two years later. At the time, owning one restaurant and starting a family was all that I could handle. I would’ve never thought about opening a second, but in 2014 we figured that the kids were a little older and we thought to ourselves, What do we want to do professionally? Then came the idea of opening a Korean restaurant, which really appealed to me as a Korean immigrant. It was a cathartic experience to go back and decide to explore Korean food professionally, when all my life I had trained in French and Italian cooking styles. 

VE: Have the kids always been receptive about your busy schedules? 

SK: Insa definitely posed a greater challenge in terms of maintaining a normal family life, but we made do with it. Although I have to tell you this one story from when the kids were younger: We hadn’t signed a lease yet for Insa and were sort of talking about the concept of opening up a large Korean barbecue restaurant with karaoke rooms and a separate area. The little voice of Oliver said, “Are you guys opening another restaurant?” And we were like, “Yes, honey, we’re going to do this.” We started talking about it at the dinner table and both kids put on a sad face and went, “Noooo don’t do it!” We asked them why and they went, “Because we’ll never see you!” That almost broke me, but they were old enough where if they didn’t have school, we could bring them to the worksite. 

VE: What are some of the positive aspects of having parents in the restaurant industry? 

SK: Before Ben and I teamed up to do The Good Fork, he was a woodworker, so at Insa, he built the space while I designed the menu and cooked. The kids got to really see us do our work and take a certain pride in it, and that’s a beautiful thing. Luckily, a restaurant is a physical space we can all go. The kids know all our employees, which we consider extended family, so it’s great for them to be a part of that world and really get to see what we do. My son has a career day coming up in a few weeks—it’s the first one ever at P.S. 372 and he asked present at it. A lot of the time, children don’t have any clue what their parents really do, because the parents work in an office that the kids go to maybe once a year.

VE: What do you hope that your kids have learned after spending so much time in restaurants? 

SK: I remember as a child working as a babysitter, and I don’t know if it was because I was an immigrant and immigrant families work all the time, but I do want to instill the value of work in my kids. I know they’re seeing the value of work because no one works harder than a dishwasher or server and I love that they’re seeing that and appreciate that. 

VE: What’s in store for the new project?

SK: This next project, Gage and Tollner, it is even bigger in scope because it’s a revival of a historical restaurant, an old oyster chop house that dates back to 1889. It’s an interior and exterior landmarked space in Downtown Brooklyn, so there are a lot of eyes on it as we get ready to open this spring. We’re not really a family that relies on nannies—we sort of do everything—but when the crunch time comes with the opening, we’ll definitely have to rely on some friends to help out at least with Oliver. 

VE: I’m sure your work keeps you plenty busy, but how do you try to stay involved in your kids’ school affairs? 

SK: I’m cooking for the gala at P.S. 372 this year. I always feel so compelled to do what I can for my kids’ schools. My daughter graduated from there two years ago and my son’s been there since kindergarten. It’s just a great school and I want to give back and do whatever I can. When my daughter graduated, I cooked for the gala and will do it again at the end of March! I can’t go to every PTA meeting, and I feel bad about that, but every once in a while, if I can do something big to help out these awesome public schools, I’m down for it. 

Interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/park-slope-reader-covid19-relief

Eating Local: Rose Water – A Fond Farewell

By Filed Under: Eat Local Tagged With: ,

Tucker long knew that the day would come where he would choose to walk away from Rose Water. He always knew that he wanted to walk out in front, by way of his own decision. He wanted to make the announcement himself, have people come and share a last meal and reflect on old memories, and, in his own words, “ride off into the sunset.”

I met John Tucker, the owner of Park Slope’s Rose Water, in the restaurant’s candlelit dining room, right as the neighborhood farm-to-table spot was gearing up for the night’s dinner crowd. Tucker had just gotten off a plane from California, for a trip that sounded like it was meant to serve as time off from work duties. But as it goes for most restaurant owners, there’s no such thing as a break – something that is especially true at a place like Rose Water. 

“The minute I got off the plane, I  had to spend a lot of time updating our wine list, because we use these small producers that have bottles constantly coming and going and beer list changes,” said Tucker. “Then we needed to make menu changes because of the seasonal shift as stuff from late summer and fall start to go out of season. As opposed to a place where not much changes, this place is changing constantly. And that requires a tremendous amount of work.”

For nearly two decades, Rose Water has been serving sustainable, seasonal, American fare to locally minded diners who seek a break from routine. In this time, both Rose Water customers and staff have born witness to cycles of life and neighborhood changes: When Rose Water opened, it was one of few restaurants in the neighborhood. Today, all sorts of restaurants dot the streets throughout central Brooklyn, making the question of how to choose a restaurant far more difficult than asking where there might be one. 

Two decades ago, Tucker’s youngest son had not been born yet. In the time since, he has worked at Rose Water (alongside Tucker’s other two children), and this spring, he will graduate from high school. Similarly, some Rose Water customers first came with new babies in tow, who are now unrecognizable, as young adults coming in for a meal without their parents. Others guests are no longer with us, but still, somehow, the restaurant has continued to preserve the legacy of memories made with them. 

All of that came to an end, or perhaps just an indefinite respite, on Thanksgiving Day this year, when Rose Water shuttered its doors, sharing a last meal among longtime customers and family. 

Tucker–who also doubled as the restaurant’s general manager–announced the decision to close Rose Water in September, with about eight weeks’ notice ahead of its last day in business. It was by no means an easy decision for Tucker, who spent weeks deliberating the choice with his family. Nonetheless, the choice to close somehow felt right for a variety of reasons. 

“We move through this life, we change, and we need to recognize when it’s time to run with that when it feels like the right thing to do, and to reflect on that and act on it. I’m almost 61 and I just don’t have the same energy as when I started,” said Tucker.

Rose Water opened its doors in August of 2000. At the time, Tucker had just finished a stint as general manager at Soho’s Savoy, a well-known pioneer in New York’s farm-to-table scene. Partnering with Savoy’s head chef, Tucker went on to establish Rose Water, at 787 Union Street. Intended to be an elevated, greenmarket driven neighborhood spot without the stuffiness of fine dining, Rose Water spearheaded the concept of casual yet consciously sourced dining in Brooklyn. 

Though this balance of neighborhood familiarity and attention to detail brought Rose Water a great deal of success for the better part of the last two decades, the balance between its small scale and complexity proved difficult to sustain. Both the food and wine menus at Rose Water were constantly changing, because the restaurant utilizes small producers whose inventory is also constantly in flux. When the seasons changed, so did the produce that came in. And though Tucker had been able to count on a number of staff members who had been working at Rose Water nearly since its very beginning, he didn’t have a person in a manager role to lean on. He was the one that took care of liaising with wine producers and farmers, as well as leading his staff. He was also often found working one of the serving rotations or on door duty. The result was a work-life balance that skewed heavily toward the former.

“We were trying to do something that wasn’t hyper fussy, but super well-considered in terms of where our product comes from, trying to use all sustainable meats, going organic when possible when it comes to produce. For the size of the place, we tried to have a well-curated list of natural wines that included producers from around the world. With the level of what we were trying to do, a lot of work went into that, and doing it basically by myself as the manager, that’s a lot,” said Tucker.

Though the exhaustion of running a restaurant is one reason that Tucker was seeking to move on, there was certainly a financial component as well. In recent years, Rose Water had become less profitable than it once was, something that Tucker chalked up to a few potential explanations. Although there was once a reliable dining out culture that was centered particularly on local modern American cuisine, this trend has shifted: people are increasingly ordering takeout, and aren’t eating out as much. Those who are interested in food have taken that interest to their own kitchens, an outgrowth of “foodie” culture where preparing more gourmet meals at home supplants going out to restaurants. 

“It’s become more expensive to eat out for a variety of different reasons,” said Tucker. “That has everything to do with rent and minimum wage–things that are good reasons. I also believe that people who are interested in food have learned how to cook. Stores like Union Market or the Park Slope Food Co-op, which is as popular as ever, and Whole Foods, are now places where you can go in and buy not only quality ingredients, but a vast array of spices and all sorts of things.”

Competition is another factor as to why running a restaurant in Brooklyn has grown more difficult. In 2000, there were very few dining options across central Brooklyn, so if people wanted to eat out and lived in Prospect Heights, Crown Heights, or Windsor Terrace, they’d likely flock to places like Rose Water or al di la Trattoria, rarities in the then-restaurant desert of Brooklyn. But today, Brooklyn is filled to the brim with a diverse selection of places to eat. There are fewer reasons for people in neighborhoods surrounding Park Slope to leave for dinner. 

Despite the decision to close has certainly been bittersweet for Tucker, he’s looking forward to enjoying nights and weekends off for the remainder of his work life. He’s chosen to leave the restaurant industry altogether, and has taken up a position at a nonprofit youth soccer program that he’s been volunteering at for the last decade. Tucker won’t be doing the coaching, but will instead, be taking his leadership skills to helping grow the business side of the organization. Though Tucker has been offered a full-time position there on numerous occasions, he’s always had to decline. He was busy, after all. 

As for the Rose Water storefront itself, Tucker disclosed that a few longtime employees are looking into pursuing another project with the space. 

“With any luck they’ll be carrying on doing something,” said Tucker. “It won’t be exactly the same, but it might involve parts of Rose Water and parts of the name–we’ll see. They’ve got some bridges to cross first. If they’re not able to do something with it, chances are, I’ll just empty the place out and walk away. I have some time on my lease, but I’ve chosen not to negotiate another term or finish out that last year.”

Tucker long knew that the day would come where he would choose to walk away from Rose Water. He always knew that he wanted to walk out in front, by way of his own decision. He wanted to make the announcement himself, have people come and share a last meal and reflect on old memories, and, in his own words, “ride off into the sunset.” It’s by no means been easy, but as it always has, the show must go on until that meal.

“It’s been a lot of grief for me. And I’ve had to wall off some of the emotions. But my plan is to have my family of five be the last table to sit down for a meal on Thanksgiving, if we can do it, that is. Who knows? We might end up at Wendy’s.” 

Eating Local: Rediscovering Runner and Stone’s Homemade Fare with a Twist

By Filed Under: Eat Local Tagged With: ,

Photos by Viviane Eng

Not much has changed at Runner & Stone, a Gowanus based restaurant, bar, and retail-wholesale bakery that’s been in operation for the last seven years, and no one seems to want otherwise. According to general manager Julio Herencia, the restaurant was among the first to open in the area, back when New Yorkers complained about how smelly the canal was, and the warehouses of the neighborhood weren’t known for housing breweries and barbecue. In spite of this fairly long history and dramatic neighborhood change, locals are rediscovering Runner & Stone, something Herencia attributes to the great care that the restaurant devotes to sourcing and preparing food.

“We make our own butter, our own ketchup—we’ve never bought a sausage. We make our own sausages. You name it, we make it. It’s borderline annoying,” said Herencia with a smile. 

In a time when restaurants are scrambling to maintain quality amidst new minimum wage laws, increasing food prices, and skyrocketing rents, Runner & Stone has stayed true to its commitment to sourcing locally when possible, developing relationships with organizations like the Park Slope Food Co-op (which sells Runner and Stone bread), and, simply, spending time with their food to make it as delicious as it can possibly be. 

“Both of the owners are often in here for 18 hours a day,” said Herencia. “Peter’s hands were in the dough until about four o’clock today and Chris works 10 to 14 hour days. I think that shines through with the product.”

It’s so wonderful to have created a business where the employees like to spend time, and where I recently see customers and employees getting together and collaborating. The inter-personal exchange that occurs around and because of food is truly inspirational on a daily basis.”

Chef Chris Pizzulli (Blue Ribbon Brooklyn) and Head Baker Peter Endriss (Per Se) are cousins and had long been discussing plans to start a business together when they opened Runner & Stone in December 2012. 

“Since he is a chef and I’m a baker, we discussed how to combine those two crafts to create an all-day business that would help us diversify in terms of business, as well as give us both the creative outlet we were hoping for. We came upon Gowanus as a kind of geographical compromise, with me coming from Lower Manhattan and Chris coming from Bay Ridge,” wrote Endriss in an email. 

Chef Chris Pizzulli and Head Baker Peter Endriss

It turned out that Gowanus was an apt place for Runner and Stone to make a home for itself. The neighborhood’s industrial-turned-early-thirties-hip identity mirrors that of the restaurant, which has become a local favorite for families, young couples on date night as well as regulars who are content sitting on their own at the bar. In a way, Runner & Stone is also part industrial, part trendy. There is somebody in the bakery at all hours of the day, a small room that is mostly ovens. These bakers and their apprentices prepare bread to be packaged and sold to places like The Park Slope Food Co-Op, while also kneading dough that will become their signature Bolzano miche, or a baguette, sliced and served onsite with a creamy herb-infused chicken liver pate. 

In the candlelit dining room, surf rock plays in the background as the dinner crowd enjoys a selection of pastas, all made in-house from scratch, paired with wine from a mostly Italian selection. Unbeknownst to some, Runner & Stone also serves its own original cocktails, often infused with syrups from the lavender, dandelion, and rosemary grown in their small rooftop garden. From the dining room, where the mood is relaxed and slow, it’d be impossible to tell that the nighttime baker hasn’t even started his day’s work.

The dining room at Runner & Stone looks like many others in Brooklyn, it’s a little dim, there’s exposed brick, and wine bottles line one wall from floor to ceiling. But if one looks a little closer, on the wall near the entrance, the exposed brick isn’t really brick at all. Rather, the wall is made from the first 1,000 bags of flour that the restaurant used, which were then filled with concrete. They look pillow-like and many first time visitors, including myself, feel inclined to touch them. The pub tables along the same wall are made from reclaimed Brooklyn water towers, a fact that is nearly undetectable, unless Herencia comes by and tells you firsthand, which he probably will. Though he is the general manager, he enjoys socializing with the customers and taking orders when the pace is slow. He tells me that he’s been invited to customers’ birthday and Christmas parties. They ask about his family and his weekend.

“The highlight of operating the restaurant is definitely the community that Runner and Stone has become, a community of both customers and employees,” said Endriss. “It’s so wonderful to have created a business where the employees like to spend time, and where I frequently see customers and employees getting together and collaborating.  The inter-personal exchange that occurs around and because of food is truly inspirational on a daily basis.”

Interviews have been edited and condensed for clarity.

http://www.runnerandstone.com

Eating Local: A Thirsty Summer – Where To Get Your Drink On

By Filed Under: Eat Local Tagged With: , , , , ,

Photography by Emily J. Davis

The summer in Brooklyn can get very hot very quickly. It’s a blessing that Park Sloper and the surrounding neighborhoods have plenty of trendy options for cooling off with an outdoor beverage. Plenty of bars are just opening their patios for the summer. If you are in the mood for lager, BBQ, or speciality cocktails surely you can find what you are looking for at at least one of these five outdoor spots in our area.

Brooklyn Bavarian Biergarten

Park Slope

Walking up Prospect Avenue on a summer’s day, you may be greeted by a mechanical horse. He is the unofficial mascot of the Brooklyn Bavarian Biergarten. Only open seasonally, this bar on Prospect Avenue is a go-to for giant German beers and pretzels the size of your head. Connected to the Grand Prospect Hall, a Victorian area banquet hall and venue that is still used for events on occasion, the Brooklyn Bavarian Biergarten is a courtyard full of trees and seating. And even a waterfall in the back that is worth checking out.

The lager selection is limited, but authentic, and the same can be said of the food menu. Featuring different types of sausages, pretzels, and chicken schnitzel, this biegvrten is as German as it gets. This spacious spot is a little more low-key than the others on this list and is a great place to take a group of friends or family if you are worries about running out of space elsewhere.

Pig Beach

Gowanus

Busy on the weekends but worth it for some of the best BBQ in Brooklyn, Pig Beach in Gowanus has blown up over the past couple years.

The standouts of the menu are the chicken wings, lathered in Pig Beach’s signature tangy Hatch Vinegar BBQ sauce, and the goldfish mac and cheese, whose texture is creamy and crunchy and just heavenly. The ribs aren’t a bad call either. Not especially great vegan options, however. 

In terms of drinks, Pig Beach offers some speciality cocktails, but most people will just lean back on their reliable selection of beers and liquors. 

If you want some quietness and solitude, Pig Beach is not your spot. But if you don’t mind waiting for a table or drinking standing up, it’s a great place for that. 

Greenwood Park

Park Slope/Windsar Terrace

In South Park Slope, on the way to Windsor Terrace, lies this spacious summer spot. Greenwood Park, on 20th and 7th Ave right off the Greenwood cemetery, is a former gas station turned bar and restaurant. You can find a great selection of local drafts as well as frozen cocktails to beat the heat. Greenwood Park also offers a pretty extensive menu consisting of typical pub food fare, burgers, wings and the like. 

Greenwood Park is also notably popular with parents. The space allows children to play while their parents enjoy a draft or two. If you want a more adult bar, go elsewhere, but if you want somewhere to bring your child and feel welcome, this is the spot. 

The bar is often hopping for the big summer games. If you are into sports, the sheltered wall of TVs allow this to serve as your sunny day sports bar and protect from the rain case of emergency. 

Zombie Hut

Carroll Gardens/Gowanus

For any Tiki Bar fans, Zombie Hut in Carroll Gardens is the spot on this list that you will be hitting up over the summer. The backyard patio is open and perfect for a party, birthday or otherwise, or a low key corporate event.

Zombie Hut’s tropical cocktails are notorious for their strength, so be careful, but don’t be afraid to let loose. The Gilligan is a strong rum cocktail featuring three rums, vodka, and OJ and the Flaming Torch shot is exactly what is sounds like.

Go to Zombie hut to drink and play games — if it’s not too crowded. If you are hungry, it may not be the best pick. If you are coming with friends, share a drink.

Franklin Park

Prospect Heights

In Prospect Heights, you can find a packed Franklin Park on a nice day. Boasting their courtyard, multiple indoor bars and rooms to socialize in, and table service, this is a great spot for craft beer. Yes, there is a full bar but local and nationally renowned drafts are the focus here.

Built out of a once-abandoned garage, the lot has been turned into one of the most popular bars in the neighborhood. With outdoor seating, an indoor bar, and arcade games there is something for foodies, children, and anyone who wants a craft beer at Franklin Park.

If you are hungry, simply walk through a corridor in the back of the bar and you are at Dutch Boy Burger. Opened by owners Matt Roff and Anatoly Dubinsky in 2010, this organic burger spot is known for their sandwiches, shakes and fries and is perfect after some sunny day drinking.

Eating Local: The Pizza Pusha

By Filed Under: Eat Local, Reviews Tagged With: , ,

Getting to Know Chris Barrett

Photography by Emily J. Davis

I’ll start this article out with a little background about myself, the writer. I’m from a conservative family in the Midwest. I’ve never smoked pot or eaten edibles. Or any other drug for that matter, not even a cigarette. It’s simply never been a desire of mine. Paul English, owner of the Park Slope Reader, asked me to interview and photograph Chris Barrett, the owner of Stoned Gourmet Cannabis Pizza. Eager to delve into the world of food writing, I excitedly agreed. So, notebook and camera gear in tow, I headed from my tiny apartment on the Upper West Side to the deserted streets of Sunset Park in Brooklyn, in search of the man they call The Pizza Pusha.

I never tried the pizza. I can’t tell you whether or not the crust was crunchy or doughy, or whether or not the sauce was sweet or tangy. I can’t give you an honest critique of Chris as a chef. I’m not sure what the pizza tastes like, but I did learn that Chris has a lot of friends, friends who are chefs that own famous Brooklyn pizzerias. The sauce recipe is from one such friend, the crust recipe from another. Chris makes food that defines being American: pizza, brownies, ice-cream. I can’t tell you about the flavors and textures, or the kind of high you’ll get from the THC infused ingredients, but I can tell you about the kind of man Chris is and how he see’s the world around him.

I immediately appreciated that Chris was very responsive to my messages. Having photographed dozens of chefs and restaurants in my career, I can say that chefs are genuinely difficult to get a hold of. Half of the time I set up appointments, they get preoccupied and forget about me. Nobody really enjoys having their photos taken anyhow, as I oftentimes feel like a dentist running after my photo subjects, telling them they’re overdue for a teeth-cleaning. Much to my relief, Chris was welcoming, responsive and organized. He didn’t rush through the interview or hurry me along. I could tell he was a good guy right off the bat.

Chris grew up in Brooklyn. He lived in a small apartment with his grandparents, above a tiny deli. As a kid, he was nick-named “The Candy Man” for his reputation selling Jolly Ranchers around school. It was a simple equation, buy the Jolly Ranchers for 10cents a piece, sell the Jolly Ranchers for 25cents a piece, make a 15cents profit. “The long kind,” not the short ones that are aroundtoday, Chris reminisced, “remember those?” I think back to my childhood and recall my favorite flavor- watermelon, which I think was probably everyone’s favorite. In addition to candy, Chris and his friend discovered that they could collect soda-pop cans and get 5 cents in return. Chris recalled, “I always had 5 or 10 dollars on me.” Chris’s grandparents weren’t rich by any means; he learned early on that he would have to buy things with his own money. He was a good kid. His eyes lit up when he recalled the award he was given for 100% attendance in elementary school.

In the 9th grade, Chris decided to drop out of high school. The subjects he was learning simply weren’t interesting or useful to him, instead, he wanted to make money. A friend got him a job at a nearby Shell gasoline station. He worked full- time, from 8am-5pm, five days a week. He didn’t like sitting at home, he liked being out. He liked making money. He liked the hustle. We talked about his parents, his siblings, and his grandparents. None of them had the ambition that he had, the spark, the drive, or whatever you want to call it. I’d probably call it, the entrepreneurial spirit. Chris believes you can “learn more in four years of running your own business than four years in school.” After candy and gasoline, he moved on to cell phones. Chris is about 50 years old, so when I say cell phones, I mean the earliest days of cell phones. He was offering 2 year plans before 2 year plans existed. Needless to say, Chris was an idea man.

I had first pictured Chris tossing pizza dough in the air, wearing a big white hat, like a cartoon Italian chef. He is in fact Italian, but Chris is the opposite of that image; he’s covered in tattoos, and he’s smoking a blunt. He’s not throwing pizzas in the air either. When I asked why his apron was so clean, he told me, “I put this apron on just for you.” Instead of cooking, he’s checking the incoming orders, hiring staff, planning monthly pop-up events in New York’s trendy neighborhoods, hobnobbing with celebrities and making future building plans. When I asked about his long-term goals, Chris told me he wants to be the next McDonald’s. He hopes to open multiple restaurants in California, where cannabis is legal, by the fall of 2019. A binder of architectural renderings sits on his desk, illustrations that he created himself. “My real talent is marketing” he explained, “I hope to one day franchise.”

Chris first caught on to the idea of gourmet edibles when living in Eureka, California. He spent six months living in the “Emerald Triangle,” learning how to grow marijuana from the experts. One evening, he was invited to a dinner party with cannabis infused condiments. It wasn’t anything fancy, just simple things like chicken wings with infused barbecue sauce or burgers with infused ketchup. It was in that moment that he decided he could offer up gourmet meals to private parties back home in New York City. After his crop was finished, he sold what he had, and returned home. The quiet life in the mountains of Northern California wasn’t for him; he missed the busy city life. Through his other business, Send A Package, he began meeting celebrities who were selling their music on cassette tapes to inmates in prison. Chris began offering to cook cannabis infused meals for his celebrity friends. Clients began requesting his pizzas at every gathering, which quickly became his most popular item. He doesn’t do many private dinners any longer, but instead tries to do once monthly pop-up events and continues to sell pizzas for pick-up or delivery in New York and New Jersey.

Chris seems up on all the hot new trends. We discuss the term microdosing, which refers to small doses of hallucinogenics, psychedelic mushrooms to be exact. He tells me that mushrooms will most likely be legalized down the road, as Colorado recently passed an initiative to decriminalize mushrooms. Perhaps Chris will add psychedelic pizzas to his menu in the future. Also, he suggested that drone delivery wouldn’t be too bad either.“If I wasn’t doing this, I’d be in artificial intelligence or nano technology,” Chris tells me. Besides cooking, Chris enjoys watching Shark Tank. “I’ve always been good at picking the next thing… like they say on the show, I know right away if it’s a hero or a zero.” Talking about big plans, Chris tells me that he’s flying out to LA in a few weeks, to film a show, with Snoop Dog and the Weed Bros.

Chris Barrett

If you want to order pizza, there’s no storefront. Everything is cooked in a small commercial kitchen, but there are no windows or signs on the door. It’s not a fancy place, just the basics: ovens, cooling racks, cutting boards. I have to admit, I felt a little bit like I was on the set of American Gangster. Remember that scene where the naked women were packing the Blue Magic packets? Chris’s pizza shop was a little bit like that scene; smoke filled the air while scantily clad women labeled red sauce onto rows of rectangular crusts. Granted, it was 90 degrees out that day, the kitchen was hot with minimal air conditioning. I was sweating through my new Anthropologie outfit, regretting my clothing choice, as I dashed around the kitchen taking pictures of what looked like innocent garlic knots and pepperoni pizzas.

You can visit the website for detailed instructions on how to complete an order. If you order a pizza for pickup, someone will meet you a few blocks away, in a clandestine meeting point. Delivery options are available for minimum orders of $100- 300, depending on your proximity. Chris monitors the clients, making sure that he doesn’t sell to underage kids.“Yesterday we had to turn downtwo orders,” he commented, having suspected that the people ordering were too young. When I ask if he’s worried about getting arrested, Chris doesn’t appear concerned. Marijuana is decriminalized in New York, and the cops have higher priorities. Chris doesn’t make food that’s going to “put you on the floor.” He wants you to enjoy the food and feel full and satisfied, like a normal meal. For people like me, he recommends starting slow, not more than one piece of pizza. I decide to pass on sampling the pizza, but I must admit that I’m somewhat intrigued by the whole thing. And if I wanted to try edibles, I think I’d be in good hands with Chris’s food. Perhaps I will someday.

Eating Local: Going To The Greenmarket

By Filed Under: Park Slope Life Tagged With: , , ,

Article and Photography by Emily J. Davis

When I first emerge from the Grand Army subway stop, I am greeted by a blue sky and green trees hanging overhead. I first gaze upon the large classical arch in the middle of the plaza. Cars whiz by, circling the regal structure. Across the way, small peaks of white tents line the horizon, the Grand Army Plaza Greenmarket.

Body and Soul Bake Shop

Strolling with coffee in hand, I’m hungry for something sweet and flaky on this bright Saturday morning. Entering the market, I pass by long tables of colorful flowers and vegetables, a man playing the saxophone, and cyclists wheeling yellow bicycles. A newbie to NYC, I’m excited to discover the regional treats. Most of the vendors came from hours away in Philly, upstate New York, or Long Island. I imagine the vendors packing their trucks in the wee hours of the morning, preparing to drive into the big city, the sun rising over the sky-scrapers beyond. Today, the market is full of food samples and upbeat Brooklynites. After the cold and rainy spring season, the warmth and sunshine has everyone in a cheerful mood. Here are just a few of my favorite vendors:

Lost Bread Co from Philadelphia, PA, is the perfect stop for a hearty loaf of bread or morning snack to go along with your coffee. Rustic loaves, available for purchase and sampling, include Milk Bread, Deli Rye and Sunflower Potato just to name a few. The Homadama Loaf, a unique take on a traditional New England-style bread, combines nixtamalized blue corn and maple syrup. The result has a slightly sour flavor and a spongy soft interior, perfect for dunking into your favorite bowl of soup. If you’re beet obsessed like myself, the Beetroot Rye is made from 100% rye flour, plus each loaf contain 1lb of beets. The taste is heavenly. For a snack, pick up a package of Pretzel Shortbreads or Burnt Toast Biscotti. The name Lost Bread Co comes from the French tradition of Pain Perdue. When loaves go unsold, they are not wasted, or “lost”. Same goes for any straggling crumbs, nothing goes into the garbage. Instead, they are twice-baked and ground up for shortbread or biscotti cookies. Unlike sweet Italian biscotti, the Burnt Toast Biscottis are savory, crumbly, and remind me of a crackling campfire. If you have more of a sweet tooth, the rum soaked Emmer Maple Cannele pastries are adorable little treats that taste like baked creme brulee, custardy dough enshrined in a slightly caramelized crust. The Canneles sell for $4 apiece, or 2 for $6. You’ll definitely want two. 

The New York Cider Company is located in Ithaca, NY. There are two ciders for sampling and purchasing, the Hedgegrow and the Smokehouse. These dry ciders come in an elegant glass wine bottle, perfect for bringing to your next gathering. Ithaca, as owner Joseph Steuer refers to as “the land of fruit,” is known for it’s 100-plus year old apple trees. These dry ciders are slightly effervescent and light in color, resembling a nice dry champagne. The Hedgegrow blend is made from over 40 types of apples gathered from farmland, wild trees, and abandoned orchards. The Smokehouse blend is made of 4 types of apples; most notably the Smokehouse apple, an old apple that grows sparingly. Unlike it’s name, it is not smokey in flavor. Instead, this yellowish apple was named after the legendary seedling that sprung up next to William Gibbon’s smokehouse in the early 1800’s. Because the cider goes through wild fermentation, Steuer explains, each batch can taste a bit unique. With no added yeast, the bottles of cider rely on natural elements, like the sun, to reach their desired flavor. Bottles sell for $16 each. 

Feisty Acres Farm is located in Southold, NY on the long arm of Long Island. First-generation farmers, Abra and Chris, own just over 8 acres of land. Up at 3am to pack their truck, they are obviously passionate about their product. “We have full and utter control over the products, all birds are raised in pasture from chick to plate”, says Abra, who is tending the booth with her father, Eli. Colorful jars of pickled quail eggs and frozen game birds are available at this booth. I am immediately drawn to the jars of eggs, there are two types available for purchase. The purple colored jar is filled with quail eggs that have been pickled in beet juice, vinegar, garlic, sea salt and dill. The yellow jar is filled with quail eggs that have been pickled in ginger, turmeric, vinegar, garlic, sea salt and spices. When I ask her why they choose quail over chicken eggs, Abra informs me that quail eggs are higher in protein, vitamins and omega 3’s, and have a higher yolk-to-white ratio. “They are richer and smokier,” Abra says. She recommends serving them on a charcuterie plate or skewering them in a martini. Decorating the booth are photos of the small game birds, roaming what looks like a grassy paradise. Jars of pickled quail eggs are $15 each. 

Far Out Cactus offers a variety of succulents and cacti to liven up your home or office. All of the plants are grown in their Chester County, PA, greenhouse. For those intimidated by growing plants, Jesse Lenat, tending the cactus stand, recommends purchasing a Jade plant. Jades are especially hardy and only need minimal water once a week. Jesse can also give you specific recommendations on which cacti will do better in sun or shade, depending on your situation. On his business card, the words Son Of A Cactus Farmer are spelled out in bold red ink.  I met Joey Ludolph, a Brooklyn Heights resident, picking out 3 succulents at the stand. She enjoys having plants because “It’s nice to have other living things in the house… and learn what’s best for them without using words.” Ludolph also enjoys growing herbs at home, not only for eating, but also for the scent. Basil is her favorite. Far Out Cactus doesn’t offer herbs, but there are plenty of other vendors at the market for all your planting desires. Prices vary depending on size and type of cacti. 

Divine Brine offers a wide variety of pickles, relishes and chutneys. In 2008, chef and owner, Robert Schaefer, found himself with an overabundance of pickle-cucumbers growing in his backyard garden. He started gifting the pickles to friends and family, and the rest is history! 10 years later, he now produces over 2,000 pounds of pickles per week and his products can be found in over 200 stores. The products offered are free from preservatives and artificial colors and flavors. Schaefer believes in the healing power of natural foods and eating a vegetarian diet. Large white buckets line the market booth, each filled to the brim with different pickles. Flavors range from Spicy Wasabi (a crowd favorite from my observation) to the more traditional Bread & Butter. Colorful jars of other products, such as peach chutney and beet caviar, can be purchased and taken home. Worker, Nikki Jamison was all smiles as she packaged pickles for shoppers. Purchase a pickle individually, or buy a container for $6.99.

Body and Soul Bake Shop stands out from the rest of the surrounding tents, not only for its bright yellow roof, but because its products are 100% vegan. There’s always a small line for these baked goods, and today is no exception. Savory turnovers, cookies and muffins stack up behind a glass partition. Uncommon flavors, like Sweet-Potato Cinnamon-Roll, Chocolate Sunflower Cookie and Spelt-Bran Carrot Muffin jump out at my hungry eyes. Even though I’m not vegan, I’m intrigued by the interesting flavors. I opt for a Lemon-Vanilla Cornbread Muffin, which is refreshingly zesty with tiny pieces of dried lemon rind sprinkled on top. The baked goods are made in small batches in a Brooklyn kitchen, with organic and seasonal ingredients whenever possible. I ask Scott, the man hurriedly tending the stand, what kind of ingredients they use that made their products vegan. He responds simply, “It’s what we don’t use.” Muffins are $3.50 each. 

Furnace Creek Farm hails all the way from the Oley Valley in Berks County, Pennsylvania. As I walk up to this stall, it resembles an old-timey apothecary shop. Bottles of mysterious brown liquids are labeled with words like Courage, Sleep, and Resilience. I’m skeptical at first, but after chatting with founder, Grace Galanti, it starts to make some sense. Since I’m battling seasonal allergies myself, she directs me to the line of respiratory products. Her recommendation for clearing the lungs and cold/flu prevention is Elixir #2: the Breathe serum, which contains raw local honey, white grape vinegar, white pine needle and Elecampane root. This root, prevalent in many of her products, is known for relieving congestion in the lungs and helping boost the immune system. Although the root itself is rather bitter, the raw honey sweetens it just enough to smooth out the flavor. You can also purchase a candied version of the root itself, which Grace recommends chewing or steeping in your tea or coffee. Stop by to talk with Grace and sample her medicinal and herbal products.  A bottle of elixir is $18 and a jar of candied Elecampane root is $8.

I thoroughly enjoyed my trip to the Grand Army Plaza Greenmarket. Whether shopping alone or with a friend, the market is a fantastic spot to spend a Saturday morning in New York City. You can enjoy your purchases under the shade of a nearby tree or take them home for later. The vendors are exceptionally passionate and eager to tell you about their products. Everything is made with love and respect; to my knowledge, all the products are free of artificial coloring, flavors and preservatives. The animal products all seem to come from happy and beautiful farms, which is a definite plus if you consume meat or dairy. My only other recommendation is getting to the market early, as vendors start to pack up and leave by 2pm. Oh, and one more thing, come hungry!

Eating Local: Community Matters

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Bar Toto: Family-Friendly, Affordable Italian in Park Slope

Bar Toto, located on the corner of 11th St and 6th Ave in Park Slope, is affordable italian cuisine with a twist. You will traverse the patio, open the heavy black door, and walk through half a dozen thick curtains before you enter. Therein lies a full service bar, in the midst of cozy, rustic tables and booths that line the walls of Bar Toto. The bar’s lighting and colorful selection of wine and liquor gives vibrance to the otherwise quant restaurant. 

In 2003, husband and wife restaurateur team Peter Sclafani and Kristen Hallett opened Bar Toto. These are the minds behind such casual, affordable dining options in Brooklyn as Bevacco, Bar Tano and Luce, the latter of which previously stood where Bar Toto now resides. 

“[Sclafani] always takes what worked from their last restaurant and then adds something new,” Bar Toto Manager Jed Stewart said, explaining the unique design. 

What is most striking about the dinner rush at Bar Toto, especially on a Sunday night, is the crowd. The tables were filled with regulars and Stewart frequently put our conversation on hold to catch up with guests. Still, it seemed even a neighborhood favorite is not safe from gentrification. 

“People live here for a year and they come a lot and then you never see them again,” Stewart told me. “Suddenly you starting seeing the new person that moves into their house coming in.”

Unsurprisingly for Park Slope, a family was seated at nearly every table, strollers lining the walls. Bar Toto’s menu is crafted with family in mind. Portions are heaping and nothing on the menu costs over $20, with the exception of the meaty entrees. Still, $27 for a steak or short rib dinner is well within reasonable. 

The pasta dishes, all fresh pasta with the exception of the penne and spaghetti, are all modern twists on classics like the Bolognese or the Penne with prosciutto, peas and cream sauce. The  ingredients are sparse but refined. There are a variety of kid-friendly Panini Burgers, but what I saw in front of every child was Bar Toto’s Grilled Pizza. Similar in look and preparation to a woodfired pizza, but with less smokey flavor and a little more dough, these are a hit with families, always ensuring leftovers for the next day. 

The prosciutto pie is tasty, a simple pizza topped with crisp prosciutto and arugula to cut the salty flavor. The crust may not be thin and crisp to the liking of many pretentious New Yorkers, like myself, but it is by no means a bad pizza. 

Speaking of crisp dishes, the calamari was remarkably hot and fresh. Lightly breaded, and slightly -less-lightly salted, the rings and tentacles avoided the pitfalls of bad calamari. The dish were neither too cold nor too chewy. As is a recurring theme at Bar Toto, this appetizer did not skimp on the portion. This house favorite is meant to be shared. 

The homemade pasta is the real star of the menu. The popular Bolognese over tagliatelle was a sweet, hearty dish. The fresh tagliatelle was delicate but kept just enough structure to support the beef, veal, and pork ragu. There was a real sweetness to the red sauce that was foregrounded by the addition of the veal and pork.  

The more time I spent at Bar Toto, the more I realized how oddly specific is to the Park Slope, and how catering to locals has been the key to its success of over 15 years. Affordable large portions appeal to the palettes of both adults and children through the use of organic produce and eggs, grass-fed beef and fresh herbs. 

On the wall in the back corner, you can see local art for sale. That’s the work of a Bar Toto bartender’s husbands, they’ve been selling them for over a year now. And people have been buying them. Community matters in Park Slope. Even when the community is only home to a family for one or two years, Bar Toto gives them a place to feel like a member of the larger family — the kind that still comes home from miles away for a good dinner. 

 

Eating Local: Flaky Croissants, Exceptional Tarts, & Cozy Nooks

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Park Slope Is Home To The Finest French Pastry In NYC

Great French pastry is hard to come by in New York City. Lucky for Brooklynites, Park Slope is home to a two of the finest patisseries in the city. These bustling neighborhood spots have brought us flaky croissants, exceptional tarts, and cozy nooks where we can read and write to our hearts content. Both founded by immigrant chefs who brought recipes straight from France, we are lucky to call Park Slope home to these authentic eateries.

 

Colson Patisserie 

Colson Patisserie, on the corner of 6th Ave and 9th St in Park Slope, is a neighborhood institution. Local writers tuck themselves away in the corner with a coffee as regulars shuffle in and out with their daily breakfast usual. If you are lucky you may catch certain city council members or local celebrities getting their daily latte and pastry. 

In 2006, Parisian filmmaker Yonatan Israel moved to New York and turned his passion for baking into Colson. Through collaboration with the shop’s namesake Belgian chef Hubert Colson, the two brought a great pasty shop into the world. 

“Some of these people have been coming here since 2006,” said Natalie Alexander, Director of Retail at Colson. “We try to support community events in Park Slope. We are doing our best to make Colson part of the neighborhood.” 

Colson is a Park Slope staple, but they are expanding, having recently opened a second location in Industry City. 

The patisserie serves typical French pastry fare like croissants, brioche, and eclairs as well as more American treats including jelly doughnuts, muffins, and their beloved chocolate chip cookies. Colson is known for their skilled, friendly baristas and their lattes, which are the most popular accompaniment to a tart or pastry. Alexander’s personal highlight from the menu is the Apple Calvados Brioche.

 “I probably eat more of them than I should in a given week,” she admitted to me. 

The brioche tart lives up to the hype. The bread is a sweet cloud-like base for the lightly spiced apples and delicious calvados cream to rest. Each bite was a perfect mix of each ingredient and can be easily eaten on the go, with a latte in your other hand, as you rush off to work or your next destination. 

Colson offers friendly atmosphere, sharp espresso, and tasty speciality pastry. But if you want a mind-blowing croissant, look no further than Le French Tart. 

Le French Tart 

When you walk into Le French Tart you are immediately struck by the wall to wall assortment of imported French products. Sweet snacks and strange candies line the walls. Savory meats and fruity carbonated beverages lay in wait in the fridge.  Walk in a little further to the deceptively deep store and you will find yourself faced with the best croissant in New York. 

Located at 5th Ave and 16th St in South Slope, Le French Tart is a pastry shop offering croissants, crepes, desserts, and of course tarts. The fresh fruit tarts are a great option, but you are missing out if you don’t try the croissant – especially the pain au chocolat that defies reality. Room temperature, flaky and buttery, yet the chocolate filling melts in your mouth every time. 

“It’s all about the butter,” Le French Tart Owner and Head Chef Laurent Chaverent told me. “You can’t rush a croissant. You have to take the time to do it right.” 

Before coming to America, Chaverent had been working at a Michelin 3-star restaurant for a number of years. 17 years ago he came to America and opened the first Le French Tart location in Staten Island. In 2017, Le French Tart opened their Park Slope location. 

In addition to the traditional pastry offerings, Le French Tart has a line of gluten free pasty. 

“We import our gluten-free flour from France,” said Chavarent. In addition to expanding to gluten-free offerings, Chaverent recently opened Italian Bakery Pane Caldo just south of Park Slope.

Eating Local: Shelsky’s Brooklyn Bagels

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Bagels Brings Sichuan Flavor to Jewish Food

Like most New Yorkers, Peter Shelsky and Lewis Spada miss the good old days. “Bagels were small and dense with a profound crust,” co-owner Shelsky says, “not these massive, soft dough balls.” Nearly eight years after opening Shelsky’s of Brooklyn in Cobble Hill – which was, at the time, the borough’s first delicatessen to open up in 60 years – Peter and Lewis are opening Shelsky’s Brooklyn Bagels to give Kings County the bagels we may not even know we’re missing out on. 

Come fall, and even possibly by the time you have this in your hands, Shelsky’s Brooklyn Bagels will be open for business in a space on the corner of 4th Avenue and 9th Street, a spot they jumped on because it met at least one of two criteria: in proximity to a subway station or next to a school. Slope locals commuting via 9th Street may have become antsy after passing the construction day by day, but it’s only given Peter more time to recipe test and play around with flavor ideas.

“When I’m not selling Jewish food I’m eating Chinese food,” Shelsky says, inspired by his recent trip to China that his wife gifted him for his 40th birthday. After spending five days in Chengdu, the capital of the Sichuan province, the wheels started turning.

“One day I thought: why not develop a chili crisp sauce, mix it with cream cheese and spread it on a sichuan peppercorn-studded bagel, paying homage to the Jews’ relationship with Chinese food?” And that’s just what you’ll find at the soon-to-open Shelsky’s: traditional New York-style bagels and bialys sprinkled with the flavors “new” New York wants to see. For those more rooted in tradition, you’ll still be able to waltz in, get your everything bagel with scallion cream cheese and schlep over to the train with time to spare; but we can’t promise the smell of a chopped cheese on the griddle or the rare sight of authentic German deli cold cuts won’t hold you up (think: jaegerwurst, headcheese, and various bologna).

Shelsky’s Brooklyn Bagels will be mostly grab and go, but will have a few tables and, weather-permitting, benches outside. If you can’t find it by its marquee-esque signage, then follow the smell of cracked black pepper and sea salt bagels.

Eating Local: Harira with Spelt and Pumpkin Recipe from Kos Kaffe

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This is one of my all-time favorite soup recipes from the cafe. It’s vegetarian but has a heartiness that satisfies meat eaters. It is heaven on a cold fall day and is very adaptable and easy to tweak as you go along. The only ingredient I find somewhat essential is the saffron. 

– Sarah

This is a very adaptable soup, so don’t fear if you don’t have it all on hand. You can easily use more lentils if you’re missing chickpeas, or more pumpkin if you’re missing lentils. You can even substitute another grain, such as freekeh or farro, for the spelt if you like.  

Makes 3 quarts to serve 8 

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed

2 medium onions (7 ounces), peeled and diced small

1 tablespoon fine sea salt, more as needed

1 bunch cilantro, leaves and stems separated

1 cup finely diced fennel, fronds reserved

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 1/2 tablespoons Baharat Spice Mix (see note)

1/2 cinnamon stick

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 quarts chicken broth or vegetable broth, more as needed

1 1/2 cups spelt or freekeh

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained 

1/2 cup red lentils

Large pinch crumbled saffron, optional

2 1/2 cups peeled and finely diced winter squash 

Tangy plain yogurt, as needed

Aleppo pepper or hot paprika, as needed

1. Warm the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Toss onions with 1/2 teaspoon salt; stir into pot with 2 tablespoons water. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat until very soft, 7 to 10 minutes. Uncover and continue cooking over medium-high heat until onions begin to brown, about 10 minutes more. While the onions are cooking, finely chop the cilantro stems. Stir stems into the pot, along with fennel and garlic and cook 2 minutes. Stir in spices and tomato paste; cook until paste begins to caramelize, about 2 minutes.  

2. Stir in the stock, 2 cups water, spelt, chickpeas, lentils and 2 1/2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Stir in saffron if using and reduce heat to medium. Simmer steadily, uncovered, 15 minutes. Stir in squash and continue cooking until spelt is cooked through, 20 to 30 minutes longer. Taste and adjust seasonings, if desired. 

3. Ladle soup into bowls. Spoon a dollop of yogurt on top and drizzle with olive oil. Garnish with cilantro leaves and Aleppo pepper.    

 Note: To make Baharat Spice Mix, in a small bowl combine 2 tablespoons sweet paprika, 1 tablespoon ground coriander, 1 tablespoon ground cumin, 1 tablespoon ground turmeric, 2 teaspoons black pepper, 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoon ground cardamom, and 1 teaspoon allspice. Yield: 1/2 cup.